Will this set still be made in 1/32 scale? If so when?
FISH!
@FISH,
all in good time,
@Hatblogger
Tuesday, January 31, 2012
Monday, January 30, 2012
Wurttemberg jagers
Here are a few Wurttemberg jagers that I painted up and a couple of conversions .
Here are the conversions. The pictures didn,t come out that great but you can see what I have done anyway.
The guy being shot was cut from the base and repositioned to look like he is falling backwards with his arms reworked and a new bare head added and I cut a shako and chord off a head from the set and positioned it on his head like its falling off. You can,t really tell from these pics but it looks pretty cool I think.
The dead guy was made from legs from a CTS Mexican dead figure on a Hat body with repositioned arms and head and a pieced together short riffle from the set.
The firing pose was taken from the Wurttemberg line infantry set and a shako head from the jagers was added on along with cutting off the musket and pinning on the end of a short riffle.
These guys are from the Grenadier and line infantry sets and I gave them shakos And changed there muskets to short riffles.
You just cut the musket off at the hand and then cut off the top half of a short riffle and with a pin or small finish nail or something you make a hole on each side and insert a small piece of wire as a pin and glue the 2 halves together.
Here are a few quick mini dioramas I did with them. the Prussian cavalry are Italeri and Timpo hussars with Hat Prussian heads added on them. I reworked the pants on most of the Italeri hussars to prussian style pants but also left a few with the french style boots because I got lazy.
I also made the cheve de frix??? Spelling??? barricade out of sticks from the yard drilled out and tooth picks stuck through them. Simple but effective! The trees and wind mill are also scratch built.
The explosions are cotton glued onto flocked metal washers with cheap acrilic paint swished into it to look like fire and smoke.
The polish lancers in the back ground are metal Del Prado figures that I also converted into various poses.
FISH!<"))))><
Here are the conversions. The pictures didn,t come out that great but you can see what I have done anyway.
The guy being shot was cut from the base and repositioned to look like he is falling backwards with his arms reworked and a new bare head added and I cut a shako and chord off a head from the set and positioned it on his head like its falling off. You can,t really tell from these pics but it looks pretty cool I think.
The dead guy was made from legs from a CTS Mexican dead figure on a Hat body with repositioned arms and head and a pieced together short riffle from the set.
The firing pose was taken from the Wurttemberg line infantry set and a shako head from the jagers was added on along with cutting off the musket and pinning on the end of a short riffle.
These guys are from the Grenadier and line infantry sets and I gave them shakos And changed there muskets to short riffles.
You just cut the musket off at the hand and then cut off the top half of a short riffle and with a pin or small finish nail or something you make a hole on each side and insert a small piece of wire as a pin and glue the 2 halves together.
Here are a few quick mini dioramas I did with them. the Prussian cavalry are Italeri and Timpo hussars with Hat Prussian heads added on them. I reworked the pants on most of the Italeri hussars to prussian style pants but also left a few with the french style boots because I got lazy.
I also made the cheve de frix??? Spelling??? barricade out of sticks from the yard drilled out and tooth picks stuck through them. Simple but effective! The trees and wind mill are also scratch built.
The explosions are cotton glued onto flocked metal washers with cheap acrilic paint swished into it to look like fire and smoke.
The polish lancers in the back ground are metal Del Prado figures that I also converted into various poses.
FISH!<"))))><
Sunday, January 29, 2012
French chasseurs
Here are my Hat french Chasseurs. Like Dave had suggested in his post I used head swops from the other french light infantry sets so there would be more poses. I also did a couple more command figure conversions some dead and wounded and a couple of other conversions to add more action to the set.
Here are the figure sets with the head swops side by side with the factory figures.
Besides the simple head swops I did these conversions also.
These are marching figures cut from the base with the arm repositioned and glued back into a 2 part putty covered washer to look like they have been wounded. A pretty simple but effective conversion.
These 2 figures were used to create the figure in the middle of a kneeling to repel figure.
The figures were cut in half and re-joined a the waist but needed a bit of 2 part putty sculpting to make the join look good.
Here is another simple conversion The factory figures are there to show the before conversion figures.
By cutting the figures from the base and repositioning them you can get wounded and running figures.
This type of Conversion works well with the Hot/cold water treatment also. Something I,ll get into in the future.
Here is a dead figure conversion from the loading pose. The arm and musket was carefully cut from the body and pulled out to the side and the figure was embedded into 2 part putty for a base and to help the figure lay on the ground in a more natural pose. To get the putty not to sick to the table get some plastic and put a touch of baby oil or vegetible oil on the plastic and roll out you putty base onto the plastic to the shape you want, texture the putty with the brush like shown in the basing post ant then embed the figure into the putty and try and make him look like a dead guy and not a standing guy that was just cut from the base.
you can push the putty around to make him look natural. then when he looks good you can fix any ground texture you messed up getting him set.
I made a bugler and then I found a good metal one (the figure to the left is a metal casting) My bugler was made from the loading figure and I found a bugle in my parts box not sure of the make? I cut and pieced a musket and rested it in his arms.
Just for fun I figured I,d make a figure holding his hat, cut from a hat figure from the set and I think the musket was a metal one I added? The figure on the side is the base figure.
I did head swops from the command set also so I would have that whole set as Chasseurs also.
I reworked the pendant guys a bit also and made a sapper from one. I repositioned the pendant on one to look more natural and be different from the other one.
The sapper head was taken from the voltiger set and was given a 2 part putty beard. The ax was made from the top of the pendant and was pinned into the top of the cut back pendant pole. I finished him off with a back pack from the set.
Here is a better veiw of the running conversion.
A better view of the wounded guys so you can see how they are falling back!
A close up of the sapper and pendant guys.
A couple more close ups!
FISH! <"))))><
Here are the figure sets with the head swops side by side with the factory figures.
Besides the simple head swops I did these conversions also.
These are marching figures cut from the base with the arm repositioned and glued back into a 2 part putty covered washer to look like they have been wounded. A pretty simple but effective conversion.
These 2 figures were used to create the figure in the middle of a kneeling to repel figure.
The figures were cut in half and re-joined a the waist but needed a bit of 2 part putty sculpting to make the join look good.
Here is another simple conversion The factory figures are there to show the before conversion figures.
By cutting the figures from the base and repositioning them you can get wounded and running figures.
This type of Conversion works well with the Hot/cold water treatment also. Something I,ll get into in the future.
Here is a dead figure conversion from the loading pose. The arm and musket was carefully cut from the body and pulled out to the side and the figure was embedded into 2 part putty for a base and to help the figure lay on the ground in a more natural pose. To get the putty not to sick to the table get some plastic and put a touch of baby oil or vegetible oil on the plastic and roll out you putty base onto the plastic to the shape you want, texture the putty with the brush like shown in the basing post ant then embed the figure into the putty and try and make him look like a dead guy and not a standing guy that was just cut from the base.
you can push the putty around to make him look natural. then when he looks good you can fix any ground texture you messed up getting him set.
I made a bugler and then I found a good metal one (the figure to the left is a metal casting) My bugler was made from the loading figure and I found a bugle in my parts box not sure of the make? I cut and pieced a musket and rested it in his arms.
Just for fun I figured I,d make a figure holding his hat, cut from a hat figure from the set and I think the musket was a metal one I added? The figure on the side is the base figure.
I did head swops from the command set also so I would have that whole set as Chasseurs also.
I reworked the pendant guys a bit also and made a sapper from one. I repositioned the pendant on one to look more natural and be different from the other one.
The sapper head was taken from the voltiger set and was given a 2 part putty beard. The ax was made from the top of the pendant and was pinned into the top of the cut back pendant pole. I finished him off with a back pack from the set.
Here is a better veiw of the running conversion.
A better view of the wounded guys so you can see how they are falling back!
A close up of the sapper and pendant guys.
A couple more close ups!
FISH! <"))))><
CONVERSION LIST HAT 1/32ND FIGURES
Hi
been reading Fish's excellent articles on converting hat figures.
I am going to start a few soon. I have done a few simple ones already with head swaps between the Wurttemberg Line Infantry and Grenadiers. This creates many more poses per type.
My next lot will be the Bavarians into 1815 Waterloo French Line Infantry with a head swap to a French shako - the rest of the uniform is pretty much the same - just remove the across chest strap - and will post some photos on here when done.
Any suggestions for simple conversions for the other hat 1/32nd sets ? I am wondering what could be done with the Wurttemberg Jagers?
Regards
9thHussar
been reading Fish's excellent articles on converting hat figures.
I am going to start a few soon. I have done a few simple ones already with head swaps between the Wurttemberg Line Infantry and Grenadiers. This creates many more poses per type.
My next lot will be the Bavarians into 1815 Waterloo French Line Infantry with a head swap to a French shako - the rest of the uniform is pretty much the same - just remove the across chest strap - and will post some photos on here when done.
Any suggestions for simple conversions for the other hat 1/32nd sets ? I am wondering what could be done with the Wurttemberg Jagers?
Regards
9thHussar
Saturday, January 28, 2012
Removing detail
Alright next step in the Russian in greatcoat conversion is removing unwanted detail from the figure.
using a sharp new hobby knife the epaulettes will have to be cut off the shoulders. and the french style water bottle will need to be cut off and a bit of detail reworked with the knife or putty.
Pic#1 and #2 Shows detail that needs to be removed.
When cutting off the shoulder detail first make a deeper cut into the shoulder strap line and then start cutting off the detail being careful not to take off the shoulder straps. Also try and be careful to carve off the detail neatly so you don,t fry up the plastic because this will show through the paint job and won,t look good. If you do ruin the shoulder detail you can add putty and smooth it out but you may need to remove a bit more plastic first to avoid building up the shoulders to much. You may also be able to melt the fry in the plastic by hitting it fast with flame or a soldering iron and smoothing it out but be very careful doing this or you,ll ruin the whole figure,
Pic#3 is the figure after the shoulder detail has been removed. Click on the photos to enlarge them so you can see better!
The water bottle is a tricky spot and hard to get at because the arm is in the way but you,ll need to try and carve the detail back into the straps and the sword as best as you can or cut it off and re-sculpt it with putty.
same as the shoulder straps start by cutting the strap line into the figure deep and then cut away and sculpt the detail back in being careful not to ruin the strap lines.
Pic#4
Next we,ll take a backpack from a Hat Russian figure and cut off the sword and cartridge box. The sword we already have on the figure and the cartridge bow will need the strap shortened and repositioned.
Pic#5
Pic#7 and #8
Add some putty to the hole on the back of the pack because the hole in the backpack is much to large for the peg on the figure and attach the back pack.
Pic#9 and #10 Now well add the cartridge box back on after we check the fit and cut back the strap.If you cut the strap on an angle you can get a tapered end that,ll help the strap end slide up under the back back and have a more natural look. You can just glue on the cartridge box but for a more secure fit take the tip of your hobby knife and dig a hole into the back of the cartridge box and also the figure where the box will rest on his back and add some 2 part putty to the holes you make. That,s it for this post, Now all that,s left to do is extend the great coat and were done.
using a sharp new hobby knife the epaulettes will have to be cut off the shoulders. and the french style water bottle will need to be cut off and a bit of detail reworked with the knife or putty.
Pic#1 and #2 Shows detail that needs to be removed.
When cutting off the shoulder detail first make a deeper cut into the shoulder strap line and then start cutting off the detail being careful not to take off the shoulder straps. Also try and be careful to carve off the detail neatly so you don,t fry up the plastic because this will show through the paint job and won,t look good. If you do ruin the shoulder detail you can add putty and smooth it out but you may need to remove a bit more plastic first to avoid building up the shoulders to much. You may also be able to melt the fry in the plastic by hitting it fast with flame or a soldering iron and smoothing it out but be very careful doing this or you,ll ruin the whole figure,
Pic#3 is the figure after the shoulder detail has been removed. Click on the photos to enlarge them so you can see better!
The water bottle is a tricky spot and hard to get at because the arm is in the way but you,ll need to try and carve the detail back into the straps and the sword as best as you can or cut it off and re-sculpt it with putty.
same as the shoulder straps start by cutting the strap line into the figure deep and then cut away and sculpt the detail back in being careful not to ruin the strap lines.
Pic#4
Next we,ll take a backpack from a Hat Russian figure and cut off the sword and cartridge box. The sword we already have on the figure and the cartridge bow will need the strap shortened and repositioned.
Pic#5
Pic#7 and #8
Add some putty to the hole on the back of the pack because the hole in the backpack is much to large for the peg on the figure and attach the back pack.
Pic#9 and #10 Now well add the cartridge box back on after we check the fit and cut back the strap.If you cut the strap on an angle you can get a tapered end that,ll help the strap end slide up under the back back and have a more natural look. You can just glue on the cartridge box but for a more secure fit take the tip of your hobby knife and dig a hole into the back of the cartridge box and also the figure where the box will rest on his back and add some 2 part putty to the holes you make. That,s it for this post, Now all that,s left to do is extend the great coat and were done.
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