I had been staying with an old friend in north London…..but had had many errands to run while there. Those to central London posed no problem….but I wanted to visit a specialist shoe shop which was situated in the further reaches of the capital.
Terra Incognita.
For both of us.
Accordingly we consulted Transport for London’s journey planner, according to which we took three buses involving two changes.
Fine…except at that change two it did not explain that we had to cross the road as a result of which we had an interesting journey in the wrong direction.
We passed from discreet Kensal Rise to run down Willesden – all fast food, nail bars and Turkish barbers, then out into the wilds.
We passed shopping streets full of halal butchers…..then south asian suppliers….Polish stores…..Roumanian supermarkets….and finally kosher bakers – at which point we realised we were going the wrong way and retraced our steps – using, fools that we were, the Transport for London journey planner once again.
Mission accomplished, we returned to Kensal Rise, gentrified for some years now. No halal butcher, no south asian supermarkets, no kosher bakeries. A plethora of expensive ‘beauty’ parlours, cafes and restaurants….the last fish and chip shop closed and shuttered. The new residents do not shop locally – unless in the organic butcher. They order from upmarket delivery firms for their groceries – and from decidedly downmarket delivery operations for their drugs.
On the way to the shoe shop we had noticed a number 302 bus – the first one of the three on the TfL list – in the other lane just a few stops short of our destination. Accordingly, on the return leg we checked the bus stop signs and found one at which the 302 would call. So the three buses and two changes had been inaccurate.
The next day we wanted to go to Somerset House to see a Seurat exhibition – and consulted TfL again. It suggested three buses and two changes and took us on a roundabout route. My friend, who has an encyclodaedic knowledge of central London bus routes, announced that that was rubbish. Two buses, one change and a direct route.
Once could be an aberration…..but twice? Looks more like a sneaky way to raise revenue.
One thing struck me about the buses…..I used various services nearly every day for three weeks and on only four occasions did I hear passengers speak in English, either to their neighbours or on their mobile ‘phones. A curious phenomenon.
One Sunday, we went to the National Gallery in Trafalgar Square to see the Stubbs exhibition…..extracts from his work ‘The Anatomy of a Horse’ published in 1766, the fruit of eighteen months’ labour in dissecting horses, the better to know how to depict them acurately.
His best known work is the stunning study of ‘Whistlejacket’, a racehorse owned by one of George III’s ministers

But the exhibition also displayed another of that minister’s horses…Scrub.

Both studies were to be part of equestrian portraits of the king…thus the pose in the ‘levade’ position….but the minister fell out with the king and the horses remained without riders.
We had noticed that a stage had been erected in Trafalgar Square, which had been closed off and imagined that it had been booked for an open air concert.
What it had actually been booked for was a celebration of breaking the fast during the month of Ramadan, and thus offered free food and a great deal of praying. Entry by ticket only.
The sight of massed upturned backsides roused great deal of reaction….one conservative M.P. opining that it was less a celebration but, by siting the event in central London, more a sign of domination. In a period of social tension over immigration, both legal and illegal, the failure to set an enquiry into organised ‘grooming’ gangs in motion, and attempts to reintroduce blasphemy laws by the back door in respect of Islam, perhaps it would have been wiser, in the interests of social harmony, to have kept celebrations to the mosques.
Business apart, I enjoyed being back in London, despite being buffeted by freezing winds every time I ventured outside the house and a damp cold which chilled me to the bone. I could shop for things unobtainable in Costa Rica – hello, jars of Marmite! – find shoes which fitted me, and indulge in the delights of black pudding, white pudding, hagggis and kippers…..
Now, if only Waitrose and Marks and Spencer would open branches in San Jose, life in Costa Rica would be truly ‘pura vida’!



