Despite the hilarity and unforgettable times had by all in Wadi Rum at Bedouin camp, one thing was missed by everyone in our group:
Hot showers.
So as sad as I was to leave my Oh-Sum fiance, I was anxious to reach the next destination.
You know, there's an odd something about tough group travel that makes body odor acceptable. In fact, it mostly goes completely unnoticed. I don't know if it was the copious amounts of desert dust stuffed up our noses that rendered it harmless, because everyone in my group knew it was there or if it was the fact that everyone stunk so really, no one did.
Push come to shove: It was a fact of life; expected and ignored because really, what could anyone do about it?
After feeling quite
smoky (from the fire pit),
sandy (from rolling down the sand dune),
gritty (the desert is dirty and dusty!) and
greasy (from not showering) the entire bus ride from Wadi Rum to the Red Sea Peninsula, we gang of gross travelers offloaded our bus and stumbled (literally) into an oasis of open-air seating covered in straw roofing and flowering vines: Sawa Beach Camp.
On arrival in the main complex we all just stood for a few moments taking in the drastic difference between the harsh desert and lush topicality of the beach camp. It was paradise!
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Sawa Beach Camp is one of what used to be many beach camps along the Red Sea. The Egyptian shore of the Red Sea used to be a hugely popular destination amongst middle-easterners (because Egypt was cheaper than the other countries). Sawa beach camp survives and thrives because of it's partnership with Intrepid Tours. And it's gorgeous, basic, very clean and a little slice of heaven. By basic, I mean
BASIC. Not that it really mattered to us, but if you're looking for a luxury resort, keep looking. This place is the Rolls Royce of
basic camps.
The accommodations are small huts.
Electricity after sunset only, and only in the form of a single lightbulb per hut. If you need to charge your phone/laptop, etc, you have to take it to the common area and leave it. A simple mattress lay on the ground, which was a concrete slab covered in hand-woven cotton rugs. And over the mattress was a gorgeous, opera, heavenly-choirs singing-moment:
A bright pink mosquito net.
I did a happy dance when I saw it. After my open-jaw moment ended, that is. I have never in my life been so very happy to see a piece of mesh netting.
I think I was in love. Because, if you remember, the mosquitoes are voracious in the Middle East.
Each hut had a covered porch with a hammock.
Mmm.
Hammock.
Beach.
Me.
In love again.
I sometimes fall in love easily. Don't you think? And with a place like this, wouldn't you?
Facing one way: The Red Sea
Turn around and looking the other way: The desert.
Communal bathrooms and showers with solar-warmed water, which is quite brilliant for the middle east, don't you think? (I must note that the cleaning crew employed by Sawa camp to keep the bathroom tidy was AMAZING. Truly. I've never, ever, ever been in a cleaner bathroom, and this one was smack on the ocean, surrounded by SAND. Sand gets everywhere, but the cleaning crew beat it into submission and kept it out of the bathroom!)
The heart of the camp: The beach and the covered Pavilion replete with cushioned sitting areas and a small cafe.
If you were to visit Sawa Beach Camp on your own, can you guess how much you'd pay per day for a heavenly little beach hut? $50? $75?
About $3 US per day. That's right. $3.
(When I checked out, I'd spent around $40 on food, drink and snorkel kit for two days... Serious good living on a budget.)
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As we weary travelers stood in the pavilion after arrival, we could see and hear the ocean crashing in the distance through the open walls and the moment we got our hut assignments we all took off, changed into our suits and met in the water five minutes later.
It was an unspoken agreement, a primal need felt by everyone:
WATER. GET IN. It was around noon and the weather was a perfect, balmy 80-ish degrees as we splashed the desert dust from our skin. The water was quite shallow for hundreds of feet before you'd reach the reef and the bottom drop-off - the place for snorkeling, which most of us decided to do the next day, when we weren't so exhausted.
I'm a beach bunny. I could spend all day, every day at the beach. In a hammock. Or in the sand. On the beach. LOVE IT. So when I tell you that after spending 20 minutes in the water I booked it back to my room, grabbed my towel and a change of clothes and headed to the shower, you might understand a smidgeon of how dry, dusty and dirty I felt (now salty too).
I wanted a hot shower.
And I wanted to beat everyone else to it to ensure my water was indeed HOT. And you know, there was nothing in this world that will ever compare to the delicate, velvety feel of that solar-heated hot water on my skin as I soaked in it, scraping the layers of dirt and sand from my skin and hair.
Shampoo!
Soap!
Conditioner!
And the lotion.
Oh.
The lotion.
Slathers of it on clean, parched skin. I felt like a princess in a spa. It was bliss.
After my gorgeous clean-up, I found some other group members beginning to gather in one of the recessed, cushioned sitting areas at the pavillion and joined them, along with our guide, Ghandi.
Ghandi explaining things to Chris
(I really think he should have been called "Yul," because he's Egyptian, not Indian!) After a while of sitting and chatting, few more stragglers joined the group and Ghandi announced, with a twinkle in his eye, that
something very special was happening tonight and we were very, very lucky.
So we all looked on, intrigued by this announcement as he continued: "Tonight is the full moon and it is the spring. So it is not too hot. Once a year, Bedouins gather from near and far in the desert about an hour from here to have a mass wedding. Tonight is the night because the full moon will light the whole night and the Bedouins will party until sunrise. The Bedouins are very friendly and you are welcome to come to the wedding if you wish."
Um. Yah. Seriously?
Bedouin Wedding in the Egyptian dessert?
Don't have to tell me twice!
Heck yes! Despite being exhausted, I knew this was something I couldn't pass up. So those who wanted to go agreed to meet for dinner around 6 and leave camp around 8pm via taxi.
And then, with a few hours to spare I fell into bed. Well actually, I crawled under the mosquito net, which was tucked into the mattress, re-tucked the net and then fell into bed. When I woke it was dusk. I miraculously didn't have a single new mozzie bite! Imagine that!
I stumbled, sleep-groggy, into the pavillion right on time only to find that the camp staff had set up a series of tables for our group to eat dinner by candle light on the beach! How cool is that??
Dinner was fantastic and hilarious. Lamb Kafta, rice, grilled tomatoes and french fries! It's amazing how universal french fries are. Seriously. And what is it about salty air at the ocean that makes all food taste ten times better than normal? Plus, you really can't go wrong eating by candlelight on the beach. It puts everyone immediately in a good mood, am I right?
I could have sat under the dark sky all night and enjoyed the ambiance from dinner, except I really couldn't because I had to get to the
Bedouin wedding!