*Before today's post, a reminder to give me your best Beastie Boys lyric for a chance to win a 30-serving bag of Monkey Shakes. The winner will be announced Saturday, so
get going!
*
When most people hear the name Pebble Beach, they most
likely conjure up the following things:
What they don't think of very often is "trail running
adventure", but that's part of the beauty of running in Pebble Beach:
almost nobody knows how to do it.
Even longtime residents sometimes struggle with running in
Pebble Beach - often shortened to "Pebble" by locals - as many trails
are unmarked, unmapped, or oftentimes both.
Paths are frequently interrupted by a road or house or fairway without
any clue as to where they continue - if they indeed continue at all. Even though the Del Monte Forest that
dominates the region is only 10 square miles, it's easy to get disoriented,
causing planned 5-mile runs to become 2-hour explorations.
I've lived in this area for almost 20 years, and I still get
turned around in the forest sometimes ... but the more miles I spend there, the
more amazed I am that this place exists, and the more awestruck I am at the
glory of creation. Which sounds like enough
reason to do a photo tour, right? I
thought so ... and took my camera with me one day for a 20-miler that
highlights the best (and strangest) of what the area has to offer.
(As usual, click any photo to enlarge ...)
For most locals, a run into Pebble Beach actually starts
outside the area, in the parking lot at Carmel Beach - which is a natural
wonder in its own right. The reason we
park here instead of going into Pebble Beach proper ...
... is this gated entrance.
All road access points into Pebble Beach pass by manned gatehouses,
where visiting cars - classified as anything without a resident medallion on the
front grill - are charged $9.75 to enter.
On the other hand, if you pass through on foot, bike, or rollerblades,
there's no charge. Running in Pebble is
wonderful, but it's not 10-dollars-a-pop wonderful - so adding an extra mile or
two onto either side of your run to avoid the fee is pretty much a no-brainer.
You encounter your first trail less than a quarter mile past
the gate - a restored remnant of a historic horse path that used to circle the
perimeter of Del Monte Forest. Many of
the trails here were built or maintained by the local equestrian community; in
a related story, mountain bikes are pretty much outlawed in Pebble Beach - but
that's a discussion for another time.
Trails also pass remarkably close to multi-million-dollar
homes, many of which sit vacant for most of the year, because they're the
vacation homes of people who have an equally (or more) expensive house
somewhere else. To say Pebble belongs to
people with money is quite the understatement.
Here's the most remarkable thing about Pebble Beach, though:
for long stretches of trail, there's no sign of any civilization or
development, and it looks and feels almost exactly like running through the Sierra
Nevadas. It would be easy to completely
forget where you are ...
... except that every now and then you skirt a lush green
fairway, which reminds you that no matter what the surroundings look like, in
these parts, golf is king.
Many of the trails are marked by signposts with colored
stripes to distinguish one from another.
The green posts mark a popular route that climbs towards the top of the
forest ...
... and back down to another swanky fairway near the Pebble
Beach lodge.
This is a polo field near the Pebble Beach Equestrian Center.
It's nothing special, really - probably just like the polo fields in
your own neighborhood. Let's move on.
One long stretch of the green trail turns into a deep sandy
path that rises up and over a large dune ...
... before cresting the dune to get your first breathtaking
glimpse of the coastline below.
Remember that multi-million-dollar home earlier? This futuristic one with beach access would
be in the multi-multi-million dollar range.
This is Bird Rock - a name that become obvious if you click
to enlarge and check out all the little black dots on top of the white surface
in the distance. It's a popular stopping point for auto tourists
on 17-Mile Drive, and a popular rest stop for cyclists and runners ...
... mainly because it's got one of the only public restrooms
and drinking fountains in Pebble Beach.
You can refill your bottles, catch your breath ...
... and gaze down the coastline at the flat stretch of trail
ahead. You know - just like the view at
the public bathroom near your house, I'm sure.
The trail continues for about two flat miles along the
coast, where the sound of crashing waves and the sight of rocks and surf is
almost mesmerizing. Not coincidentally,
this is the section where you're most likely to see fellow runners or cyclists
who are lucky enough to be there too.
Soon enough you leave the beach behind and start back up the
hill, crossing over more sand dunes until you re-enter the heart of Del Monte
Forest.
Here's one of the challenges I mentioned at the top:
occasionally, trails just emerge upon a road or intersection, and unless you
happen to know which way to go from here, it's very tough to figure out where they continue on the other side. In many
cases, the continuation is a quarter-mile or more down the road from where you
first hit the asphalt.
Sometimes the trail is marked on the trunks of trees on the
periphery of a golf course, and you know if you stay to one side of the fairway
you're in the general vicinity of the trail ...
... and other times the golf course IS the trail as you make
your way along cart paths down the length of one fairway and up another. If you thought it was easy to get turned
around on trails, try telling one immaculately groomed fairway from another
sometime. I've gone back and forth on
golf courses more than a few times ...
... before popping out on the road somewhere and thinking,
"Wait - how did I end up at the
Poppy Hills clubhouse?". Fortunately, if you know the road system here
- which is no small challenge either - you can at least point yourself back in
the right direction back into the forest ...
... where the trails eventually turn back into secluded
Sierra-like fire roads ...
... and quiet single track as you climb to the apex of the
forest.
The trails stay quiet all the way down a long descent back
toward sea level ...
... and within a couple more miles you exit the Pebble gate
and return to Carmel Beach. In the space
of a few hours, you've gone from seascape to forest and back, from sea level to hilltop, from civilization
to seclusion, from the gaudy excesses of humanity to the simplest joys of
natural existence. It probably offers
the largest environmental variability of any run I know of - and the more time
I spend here, the more thankful I am for every opportunity to explore it.
*See other photo tours under tab at top of page.
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