The event of the year in Valencia is fallas - an enormous, week-long festival which is the culmination of an entire year of preparation. It turned out to be our lucky week - unwittingly we had scheduled interviews in the South during the week of fallas, and ended up in the middle of the action on Wednesday night and Thursday morning!
The festival takes its name from the giant "fallas" or statutes which are built, mostly in some form of political satire. The largest of these are several stories tall and the detail is incredible. Like Mardi Gras, there are a number of local clubs or organizations which each build a falla - the largest ones cost in excess of $1 million to create. They are placed in various locations throughout the city, mostly in major intersections, closing down all the main roads in the city for the entire week. And then on Friday night they are set on fire and burned in a spectacle that draws visitors from all over the world! Next week they start designing and building fallas for next year.
A falla in the Plaza del Ayuntamiento
Space does not permit even a cursory description of fallas week in Valencia. At 2:00 p.m. every day in the central plaza and at various other locations in the city, thousands of explosives are fired over a 5-minute period that sounds like a battle-front. It is not uncommon to have windows blown out of nearby buildings. And all through the week, young and old walk along the streets throwing firecrackers at random. Walking through the city sounds like walking through a war zone. After a while you become accustomed to firecrackers exploding at your feet. Parents hand firecrackers to their children in strollers so the children can experience the joy of throwing them on the sidewalk. This is the Spanish version of family entertainment!
In the evening and until 3:00 a.m., bands are marching around town and street concerts are in progress at high volume. Needless to say, between the bands and the firecrackers we got very little sleep on Wednesday night in Valencia! The poor missionaries haven't slept all week!
In the evening the citizens dress in tradition costumes and parade through the streets. The dresses cost literally thousands of dollars.
A "fallera" and her daughter in the metro on the way to the parade
I had heard and read about fallas, but until I saw it, it was difficult to imagine the scale of this party. It is really quite an amazing thing, and unlike similar festivals in other parts of the world (Carnival, Mardi Gras), it is very much a family event, as you can see from the photo above. Is Spain great or what?