The first time I baked this, it was during peak strawberry season—and I’d just come back from watching the tennis, all full of inspiration and sunburn. I thought, “easy enough, just a sponge and some fruit.” But I didn’t separate the eggs properly, stirred the whites too roughly, and ended up with a flat, slightly chewy cake. Not inedible, but not exactly Centre Court-worthy. On the second go, I nailed the folding technique and chose juicier strawberries. That light, citrus-scented semolina...