Showing posts with label lineup. Show all posts
Showing posts with label lineup. Show all posts

Thursday, October 6, 2011

Young x Fever

In the liner notes of his 1977 anthology album Decade, Neil Young stated that he wrote "Down by the River" and "Cowgirl in the Sand" while delirious in bed in Topanga Canyon with a 103 °F (39 °C) fever. So I'm making an effort to land some type here despite feeling the same on a cold, wet spring morning.  I can barely click the mouse. Don't know how he did it.
Pic below is our surf guide from last week, Stumpy. He sure could sniff out the perfect take off spot and find the odd Maldivian barrel as well. I can't sniff anything at the moment. Lasted two days on The Commute before succumbing to some sort of energy sapping, nose/throat/head cold bug thing. So grateful it happened AFTER the trip and not during.

Thursday, September 1, 2011

Fishermen

HUGE shout out to a couple of fishermen, who also cut a mean arc through the brine.
HAPPY BIRTHDAYs Gary and Mark. 
Hope you get a few uncrowded waves.

Thursday, August 25, 2011

Arc Poetry

If I was a better poet, I'd knock out a couple of evocative lines of rhyme about the arc as both a design feature and the way light travels through time, but I have to hitch a ride on the great metal goanna that is The Commute. For those of a performance poetry bent, check out this weekend's festival where my good friend Nathan Shepherdson is collaborating with some other wordcrafters.

Tuesday, August 16, 2011

Squall

Thanks to Cher Pendarvis for posting this quote today on her FB page. Check Cher and Steve's site for much wonderful brine crafts.
"Darkness cannot drive out darkness; 
only Light can do that. 
Hate cannot drive out hate, 
only Love can do that." 
Martin Luther King


Tuesday, October 5, 2010

Bovines, BOM and Bob


Bob Dylan once told me through a set of analogue headphones that I didn't "need a weatherman to tell which way the wind blows". Not sure if the learned folks at BOM (Bureau of Meteorology) would agree but all I need to do is look to Nature to tell me what the weather and surf are up to.

Red clouds in the morning = sailors warning. Cows sitting down in their paddocks = rain today or tomorrow. Ants moving their colonies to higher ground = a lot of rain in two weeks. Storm bird calling all day and night = a solid week of rain. Cows crossing the road = empty surf.

Friday, July 9, 2010

Cloudbreak has a silver lining


Looks like a great weekend shaping up in Brinetopia - strong winds generating 3M swell. Plus this little gem from Fiji Times Online (via Museum of Surf) about Fiji opening up it's surf spots for all to use!


Surfers can access any area without paying

"TOURIST and local surfers can, from Friday July 9 this year, access and use any surfi-ng area in Fiji without havi-ng to pay or obtain permit or approval from any person. The decree aims to encourage and promote Fiji as a premier surfing destination, promote surfing as a sport, maximise development and training of local talented surfers, and also for locals to engage more profitably in the surfing industry.
Head of the tourism ministry Aiyaz Sayed-Khaiyum said the decree had been gazetted following Cabinet's approval on June 30, and it prohibited any exclusive use of any surfing area by any person. "Any person who obstructs or prevents any person from accessing or using any surfing area for surfing or for any water sport, shall be guilty of an offence and liable to a fine and or imprisonment," Mr Sayed-Khaiyum said"

Wednesday, September 30, 2009

Wednesday Morning


Wednesday morning 12 August 2009 at 7:06 am
a winter wave hits a sandbar east of an extinct volcano,
while a boat full of exports traverses the brine.
One surfer with a camera sees it.

Monday, August 10, 2009

This Spot Up the Road

We hardly ever get decent lefts around here, but there's this spot up the road....

Saturday, August 8, 2009

Snoozing = Losing

It's cold and dark. Why bother hitting it early? Why not snooze in a while longer?