As 2019 draws to a close, an historic year which was ushered in with the Republican death-grip on our country being broken by the wave of freshman Democratic congresspeople coming to DC to restore representative government and finished with a rogue president being impeached, I reflect back on its start, remembering the trip I took in January to Hampton to visit my cousin and her husband. I went for an early morning walk on Buckroe Beach with my cousin and her dog and we briefly and hesitantly talk politics, and got to understand each other's point of view a little better, if we listened. I heard about the danger of the deep state and she heard about the peril of the criminal presidency. We listened respectfully and responded moderately, and she said things that I still think about. From there I went to North Carolina to visit my college freshman roommate at his house on stilts on the Inner Banks. We attended the funeral of a World War II veteran, the father of someone special to him, and then traveled down the coast touring small towns where he might like to move to like Oriental and Southport. As we drove around I suddenly saw someone whom I knew in another life, who I did not care to even wave to. It was an interesting trip.
Two of my three long-estranged children have birthdays in February so as had been my won't since the youngest one turned 18, I went at noon on each of their birthdays, and also on President's Day, to a restaurant in Westover near where they grew up to have lunch, in the hope that one or more of them might come by so we might start living the first day of the rest of our lives together again. No luck so far!
In March I travelled overseas for the first time ever and went to spend a few days in Oxford and London with two friends of mine. They planned the trip and invited me to come along and I am eternally grateful to them, especially since one of them went to Oxford and so knew how to perambulate that ancient, venerable town. But best of all, after England, we went to France for a few days, spending them in Bayeux, Normandy. It was 75 years since the D-Day invasion at the nearby beaches and we took two whole days touring all five landing sites, two American beaches and three Commonwealth beaches. At the end of March I stood on Omaha Beach, site of one of the most famous battles in not only American but also world history, ranking alongside Cannae, Hastings, Trafalgar, Yorktown, Gettysburg, Midway and Stalingrad in importance in changing the fortunes of history. One hundred yards of beach led from the water's edge to the false protection of a sea wall at Omaha, and for six hours American boys huddled underneath its scant, inadequate protection as the issue of a successful Allied landing on the European continent was in doubt. Hundreds died there while Nazis dug into hardened positions along the overlooking ridge line raked them with murderous fire. But by the end of the day the Americans had persevered and had slogged inland several hundred yards, thus preserving the center of the entire five-beach seaborne lodgment and saved the invasion itself, which would have faltered and perhaps been been sliced in half and driven off shore if the center, Omaha Beach, had failed. I felt a reverence at being there, the same feeling I had the next day as I viewed the thousands of gravestones at the American Cemetery overlooking the beach.
April saw us in Paris, after a stopover at Giverny. We passed right by the Arc de Triomphe as we drove in and took 10 minutes to cross a bridge over the Seine (traffic in Paris is terrible!) with the Eiffel Tower just off our left side. My friends flew back to the states the next day but I stayed over for two more days and loved my time in Paris, even though I don't know any French. I discovered by accident that if I started a question or statement in my best French ("Ou est . . .") then switched into my high school Spanish the French listener would seem to appreciate my attempt at learning their language, be amused but soon grow impatient with my seemingly ignorant reversion to bad Spanish and sometimes answer me in English. I toured or walked by Notre Dame (two weeks before it burned), Montmartre, the Basilica Sacre-Couer, the Church of St. Pierre, the Paris Opera, the Jardin du Luxembourg, the Musee d'orsay, and Versailles, which was my favorite. The gardens were amazing, the palace was cool but best of was the Hall of Mirrors. As a schoolboy I read about Louis Quatorze, the Sun God, with his Hall of Mirrors as emblematic of his power and prestige. I was thrilled to walk through it a half-century later.
Showing posts with label France. Show all posts
Showing posts with label France. Show all posts
Saturday, December 21, 2019
Saturday, May 25, 2019
Looking back
Two weeks in England and France led to many memorable sights. A thing that struck me on a walk along the Thames was this memorial to lost submariners of both world wars, a poignant sculpture of Brits calmly accepting the cost of violent encounters under the sea as water demons tear their vessel's metal skin apart to transport them to the next world in the next instant, as befits careholders of the Empire.
Tracing the footprints of heroes on Omaha Beach was a poignant moment. Seeing the other four D-Day beaches in Normandy made me ruminate on the brave American, British and Canadian young men who came to grapple with and ultimately throttle the Nazi scourge occupying Europe at the time.
Oxford was charming, and very hoary. A town full of future leaders of the world.
Paris. That one word says it all.
Tracing the footprints of heroes on Omaha Beach was a poignant moment. Seeing the other four D-Day beaches in Normandy made me ruminate on the brave American, British and Canadian young men who came to grapple with and ultimately throttle the Nazi scourge occupying Europe at the time.
Oxford was charming, and very hoary. A town full of future leaders of the world.
Paris. That one word says it all.
Sunday, May 19, 2019
Paris
An American in Paris. That is what I was, not speaking the language, no guide books in hand, my friends having returned to America after showing me so much of both England and France so graciously, since I had never been overseas before.
The Arc de Triumph, the Left Bank and the Eiffel Tower were what I knew of Paris, and we drove by the Arc de Triumph on our way in, saw the Eiffel Tower from a bridge as we were returning our car to the rental agency and our hotel was near the Left Bank or maybe in it so, besides touring Versailles, which really isn't in Paris, and visiting a WWI battlefield, which would have involved intricate travel plans to get to and return in the same day, I was a blank slate on what I wanted to see and do.
I booked a tour of Versailles because I well remember from tenth grade history the phrase of L'etat c'est moi from Louis XIV's reign as signifying that king's godlike power and the teacher's discussion of the Hall of Mirrors in Versailles reflecting France's greatness at the time, and perhaps we discussed the gardens at Versailles signifying the Sun King's opulence, heady stuff for a 15 year old about to break out in a love of history that led to a history major in college (that's why I ultimately became a lawyer). (The Hall of Mirrors at Versailles.)
As I waved goodbye to my two friends Eric and Rhea as they disappeared into the Metro station to depart for the airport, they pointed to a structure 400 meters away across the Seine and said, "That's Notre Dame." I took that wonderment in during the next few hours and the next day I tramped from the Eiffel Tower to the Paris Opera, exploring the Place de Concord along the way, and took a tour of the hilly neighborhood of Montmartre and visited its Sacred Heart chapel overlooking Paris. My last day in Paris I viewed the beautiful art in the Musee d'Orsay and took my tour of Versailles, which I think I will always remember as the highlight of my trip to Paris (that, and visiting Notre Dame because, horrifyingly, it burned extensively a mere two weeks later) and the next day I returned to the US and finally had my first cup of satisfying coffee in two weeks at the local McDonalds. (Les Quatre Parties du Monde Soutenant la Sphere.)
The Arc de Triumph, the Left Bank and the Eiffel Tower were what I knew of Paris, and we drove by the Arc de Triumph on our way in, saw the Eiffel Tower from a bridge as we were returning our car to the rental agency and our hotel was near the Left Bank or maybe in it so, besides touring Versailles, which really isn't in Paris, and visiting a WWI battlefield, which would have involved intricate travel plans to get to and return in the same day, I was a blank slate on what I wanted to see and do.
I booked a tour of Versailles because I well remember from tenth grade history the phrase of L'etat c'est moi from Louis XIV's reign as signifying that king's godlike power and the teacher's discussion of the Hall of Mirrors in Versailles reflecting France's greatness at the time, and perhaps we discussed the gardens at Versailles signifying the Sun King's opulence, heady stuff for a 15 year old about to break out in a love of history that led to a history major in college (that's why I ultimately became a lawyer). (The Hall of Mirrors at Versailles.)
As I waved goodbye to my two friends Eric and Rhea as they disappeared into the Metro station to depart for the airport, they pointed to a structure 400 meters away across the Seine and said, "That's Notre Dame." I took that wonderment in during the next few hours and the next day I tramped from the Eiffel Tower to the Paris Opera, exploring the Place de Concord along the way, and took a tour of the hilly neighborhood of Montmartre and visited its Sacred Heart chapel overlooking Paris. My last day in Paris I viewed the beautiful art in the Musee d'Orsay and took my tour of Versailles, which I think I will always remember as the highlight of my trip to Paris (that, and visiting Notre Dame because, horrifyingly, it burned extensively a mere two weeks later) and the next day I returned to the US and finally had my first cup of satisfying coffee in two weeks at the local McDonalds. (Les Quatre Parties du Monde Soutenant la Sphere.)
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