I am currently beginning to research for a paper or possible article on
comparative woven textiles and culture of various indigenous tribes
throughout the world, specifically regarding the women that weave
these items. Not just the actual weave structures, but the
anthropological aspect of the similarities of these various ethnic
groups. I would like to trace the possible movement regarding the
"culture of warp faced textiles" and relate this to the spread of
peoples, beginning in Africa through to the Middle East and Central
Asia and follow this as it spreads through Northern and Southern Asia,
into Indonesia, as well as into North America, Central America and
South America.
about an exhibit currently being shown at the Textile Museum in
Washington, DC.
The article entitled, Timbuktu to Tibet: Rugs and Textiles of the
Hajji Babas, written by Sumru Belger Krody (Shuttle, Spindle, &
Dyepot, Volume XXXIX No. 4, Issue 156, Fall 2008, Handweavers Guild of
America, Inc., pages 29-32).
I have to say the first few sentences really got my attention.
"Textiles, the most universal of all art forms, tell stories about the
lives of people worldwide. As social currency, they contain embedded
messages about an individual's wealth, social status, occupation, and
religious and ethnic associations, as well as the values, codes and
social order of a culture." (p. 29)
This really made me think about the comparative weaving structures,
techniques, and symbolism of various Ethnic Styles of weaving. Navajo,
African Tribal, Peruvian, Arabic, oh there are so many to list, but I
think you get the idea of what I am trying to say...
Because the article was featuring many central Asian woven art, I
became really interested in the Arabic weaving of the nomadic tribes
of the middle east. Many of you may understand what triggered inside
me. I want to learn more about the weavers and the work they produce.
I have studied about Navajo and African textiles, but this was the
first time I actually became aware of the Arabian weaves, almost
entirely produced by the women of the tribe.
So, I have been starting my research on comparative weave structures in indigenous cultures….and I have found some information regarding the use of ground looms and backstrap looms to make a complex cloth such as Double Weave. There is a simple way to produce a single weft double weave on a loom that does not have multiple harnesses. It is a weave structure that is achieved on different continents on the globe. In Northern Africa, Middle East and South America. I am talking about a warp faced double weave that has been discussed by both Martha Stanley and Peter Collinwood.
Stanley, Martha. "The Beduoin Saha Weave and its Double Cloth Cousin", In Celebration of the Curious Mind edited by Nora Rogers and Martha Stanley, Interweave Press, Inc., 1983. Pg 68-79
Collingwood, Peter. The Techniques of Rug Weaving. New York: Watson-Guptill, 1968. Pg 449-451.
This one weft double weave has also discussed in by authors Irene Emery, Ann Pollard Rowe, Grace M. Crowfoot, and Marjorie Cason and Adele Cahlander. I am in the process of tracking down these sources so that I can add them to my research.
I am fascinated by the advance structure of this weave, and how it was discovered. I would love to participate in a group that studies this specific weave structure on simple looms. There are many study groups on double weave that are made by using a loom with 4 or more harnesses. However, I have yet to find one specifically for double weave on a primitve loom.
Since this is the beginning of my journey, I would like to open this post to discussion. Any suggestions or perhaps directions I can look into to find someone to study this technique with please post a comment.
-Wefty Woman
One Warped Bitch
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I have found someone who I am bound and determined to get back into weaving (in some form or another)
Her name is Vall, and she has some shops on Ebay and ArtFire that you may be familiar with. I am adding an additional post to Wefty Woman because I feel that her description of Double Weave deserves its very own section. So please be sure to read this additional post : Double Weave, is it double the trouble or double the fun.
As with others before, I will give Vall a gratuitous Wefty Woman plug, so y'all be sure to visit her sites, and dammit buy something!
-Wefty Woman, Your most humble warped bitch...
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