Showing posts with label tourism. Show all posts
Showing posts with label tourism. Show all posts

Wednesday, April 15, 2026

Easter on Polovrak 2026

After a string of gray, rainy days, Easter was sunny and warm. This year Gaby stayed in Vienna (we are expecting her later this month), but Alex decided to join us on our traditional Easter hike. 

Although we visited peak Polovrak only a month ago, we chose it again for its nice open trails, beautiful views and easy access from home.

The view from the Lozen monastery to the Sofia valley
Because of the holiday, the monastery was well visited and the nuns surprised us with dyed Easter eggs as a good wishes greeting for every visitor.

The forests towards the peak are gradually filling in with grass and flowers

Hike info:

Date: 12 April 2026 
Destination: peak Polovrak (1182 m)
Mountain: Lozen
Total length: 10.5 km
Elevation gain: 420 m
Total duration (plus picnic and rests): 3 and a half hours
Average difficulty: 3 / 10


The last steep stretch towards the top of the mountain

Dam Iskar and Rila in the far distance
Vitosha with its fresh snow cap - the snow there will last at least till June.


Me-made items, worn on this hike:
 
Husband: men's boxers, Burda cargo pants, Burda longsleeve, knitted socks

I:  lingerie, Sinclair Lotte blouse, legwarmers

Alex: Burda T-shirt, hat 


As usual, we had our tortillas, painted Easter eggs and kozunaks (Easter bread) slices on the sunny meadow near the peak. It was warm, quiet and divinely peaceful.

On the way back we took alternative trails, so that we managed to make the hike almost entirely circular.


The trees in the mountains are still bare, but spring is definitely in its reign now.



Wednesday, April 8, 2026

Alinsky Monastery 2026

The trail to Alinsky Monastery is one of our spring staples. It is more of an open-field trail than a mountain or forest hike, which makes it perfect for those long-awaited warm days. Since Sunday was forecast to finally break the sequence of cold, rainy weather, we planned a hike to the monastery, hoping for sunny paths and blossoming trees. 


What we found instead were felled pine trees and piles of debris left on the ground. For about a quarter of the route, the trails were totally ruined—such a disappointment! A notice board displayed a permit for "technical wood-felling" stating that the area should have been cleared by the end of last year. Obviously, someone hadn’t finished the job. 

Between the logging and the damage from motorbikes, ATVs, and Jeeps, the trails were a disaster. Thankfully, this section was only a couple of kilometers long and not so bad the whole time, but it was definitely not pleasant and the piles of cut tree trunks and branches were a very sad picture.


Once we turned toward the monastery, conditions improved significantly. Even the promised sun peeked through the clouds, if only for a short while. The trees were still far from blooming, early hellebores and crocuses were still out, and we even spotted small patches of snow. 


I brought my hydration system for the first time this year, and I was impressed (again) by how much more I drink when it’s accessible. My husband, who still insists on using a thermos, drank only a third of what I did, despite being twice my size! It really is about the habit of sipping constantly rather than waiting until you feel thirsty. By the time you’re thirsty, you’re already dehydrated, which isn't great for your muscles when you're asking them to work hard. 


Hike info:

Date:  06 April 2026
Destination: Alinsky Monastery
Mountain: Plana
Total length: 16.5 km
Elevation gain: 200 m
Total duration (plus picnic and rests): 5 hours
Average difficulty: 4.5 / 10




Me-made items, worn on this hike:
 
I: lingerie, Lotte Sinclair blouse, "Page" hoodie, ankle warmers, knitted hat
Husband: men's boxers, socks, Burda cargo pants, Burda hoodie, green longsleeve

We enjoyed delicious tortillas and small beers on the hill above the church, looking out at the Rila peaks in the distance.


On the way back, while stopping to photograph these hellebores, I noticed young nettles peeking through the old leaves. I collected a few handfuls and added them to a shakshuka later this week. I highly recommend it— you'll be surprised how well the nettles pair with the tomatoes and peppers! 


The hike was going more or less as usual until we reached the muddy section on the return leg. To escape the mess, we decided to bypass it through the forest. Little did we know there was another trail starting from the same point, but heading in a perpendicular direction. 


Engaged in a lively conversation and happy to be out of the mud, we followed the new trail without realizing it was the wrong one. Almost 2 km later, I became suspicious. I noticed markers that shouldn't have been there, like a line of power lines. We consulted the map and realized we were way off track; the trail had gradually curved away from our destination in the opposite direction. We had no choice but to hike back up to the bifurcation point. 

This is peak Groba, which we climbed on the way back:

Ironically, the "wrong" trail was in much better condition than the one leading to the village of Plana. Pity, that it led to a completely different place and was of no use to us.



Back on the right track - the detour added an hour to our hike and an extra 200 m of elevation gain.


Plana remains one of our favorite mountains near Sofia, but it’s a pity it isn't better protected. The trails aren't well-marked, and getting lost - even for experienced hikers - is quite easy. I can’t imagine navigating it without modern GPS apps!


Saturday, March 28, 2026

Lakatnik 2026

Our sixth consecutive March hike to Lakatnik was a long time in the making. We’d been waiting for the perfect window for days, and when the forecast identified last Thursday as the only "semi-suitable" day  - offering mild temperatures and a zero percent chance of rain - we seized the opportunity. We cleared our schedules and caught the train toward the Iskar Gorge.

As expected, the day was mild but breezy, with clouds occasionally blocking the sun's warmth. However, given how relentlessly cold, dark, and wet this year has been, it was evidently the best we were going to get this spring. For now, at least.


Hike info:
Date: 26 March 2026
Destination: Lakatnik Eco Trail
Mountain: the Balkans
Total length: 10.8 km
Elevation gain: 300 m
Total duration (plus rest): 3 h 20 min
Average difficulty: 3 / 10

I've written many times about this trail, it's a nearly circular route, that is fairly easy and definitely very scenic and absolutely worth the train ride from Sofia and back.



Me-made items, worn on this hike:
 
Husband: men's boxers, socks, grey longsleeve, Burda cargopants
I: lingerie, Burda blouse, Burda hoodie

Spring was clearly waking up in the gorge. The dogwood trees were in bloom, and violets and mountain primroses had already begun to replace the hellebores and crocuses. All the clouds and rain in the world can’t stop the warmth that’s waiting for us just ahead!




We enjoyed our usual tortillas and small beers at our traditional spot: a stony platform overlooking the river, the gorge, and the mountain ridges beyond. It was, without a doubt, the highlight of the hike.





On the way back, we decided to stop for a quick peek into the Temnata Dupka (Dark Hole) cave. We only ventured about 40–50 meters inside to see the bat colonies.


Despite knowing these are harmless insect-eating creatures, seeing them hanging from the cave ceiling right above my head definitely gave me the creeps!

And back to the train station, waiting to catch our train home to Sofia.