Seasonal Ontario Food

It's the end of the year, so it's the end of the year lucky bean dish. This traditional Slovakian dish usually has a variety of smoked pork products added to it, but I didn't happen to have any and wanted to keep it a little lighter. It's still a pretty substantial meal. I did use some bacon fat, but some kind of vegetable oil is all it needs to be vegetarian. If you want to use some meat, cut it in chunks (unless it's on the bone) and cook it with the beans once the water has been changed. 

I have to say though, my end of the year lucky bean dishes are not doing the trick. I would be happier to see the end of 2021 if I thought 2022 would be any better; I think it's going to take more than beans though. Here's to good luck to us all...

 

4 servings

1 hour - 30 minutes prep time 

NOT including cooking the beans

 

1 cup dried borlotti or pinto beans

1 teaspoon salt

2 medium onions

1 medium carrot

2 or 3 medium potatoes

2 or 3 cloves of garlic

1 tablespoons bacon fat OR mild vegetable oil

2 bay leaves

1 tablespoon sweet smoked paprika

1/4 to 1 teaspoon hot smoked paprika

1/3 cup tomato sauce

2 cups sauerkraut

1 tablespoon vinegar (optional)

Cover the dry beans generously with water, then bring them to a boil and boil one minute. Remove them from the heat, cover them, and let them soak for 2 hours to overnight. Drain them and add enough water to them to cover by about an inch. Add the salt. Simmer until tender, stirring regulary; about an hour. Or, cook them in an Instant Pot for 6 to 8 minutes. Allow to release naturally. This can be done up to a day ahead. 

Peel and dice the onions. Peel and grate or dice the carrot. Wash, trim, peel if you like, and cut the potatoes into chunks. Peel and mince the garlic. 

Heat the fat or oil in a large heavy-bottomed soup pot over medium-high heat. Cook the onions and carrots, stirring regularly, until softened and slightly reduced. Add the garlic, bay leaves, paprika, and Aleppo pepper and mix in well. Add the cooked beans with their cooking liquid, and the tomato sauce, and mix well. Mix in 1/2 of the sauerkraut. Add the potatoes when they are ready. Simmer the beans for 30 to 45 minutes, stirring regularly, until the mixture is thick and well-amalgamated. Keeping in mind that there is a little more sauerkraut to be added, taste and decide if you want it a little more sour, in which case add a spoonful of vinegar.

Once the beans have been added, put the potatoes in a separate pot and cover them with water. Bring them to a boil and boil for 12 to 15 minutes, until tender. Drain them and add them to the stew. 

Add the final cup of sauerkraut just before you are ready to serve, and allow it to just heat through.

This keeps and re-heats well, as with most bean dishes. 

Last year at this time I made Lentils with Smoked Sausage.

This is a simple and straightforward soup, but I really thought it was delicious, and can't wait to make it again. Be sure to purée it really well, because a silky texture is definitely part of the charm. I'd say the other trick for perfection here is to be sure the parsnips get a little browned in the butter before you add the broth. 

 

You could use leftover Brussels sprouts (or kale, or broccoli), just heat it thoroughly but briefly before adding it. You could also omit any green vegetable entirely, and just have parsnip soup, especially if you want to serve it as a starter. 

 

4 servings

45 minutes prep time

 

 

450 grams (1 pound) parsnips

3 large shallots OR 1 medium leek

2 or 3 cloves of garlic

3 tablespoons unsalted butter 

1 or 2 bay leaves

3 cups chicken OR vegetable broth

1/2 cup 10% cream

salt & freshly ground black pepper to taste

freshly grated nutmeg to taste

250 grams Brussels sprouts

 

Peel and chop the parsnips. Peel and finely chop the shallots (or leek) and the garlic. 

 

Heat the butter in a heavy-bottomed soup pot over medium heat until melted and bubbling, then add the parsnips. Stir well, then cover and let them cook gently for about 10 minutes, until lightly browned. Stir and check them occasionally. Add the shallots, garlic, and bay leaves and cook for another few minutes until they are softened. Add the broth and simmer, covered, for another 10 to 15 minutes. 

Purée the soup in a blender until very smooth. Swish it out with the cream - or if you prefer a lighter soup you could use a bit more broth instead - and add it to the soup. Season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. 

Wash and trim the Brussels sprouts, and shred them. Boil or steam them until just tender, about 5 minutes. Drain well and add 3/4 of them to the soup. Heat the soup through, but do not allow it to boil. Serve with the last of the Brussels sprouts sprinkled over the top. 

Wheeeee! Last year at this time I made Cheeseburger Wellingtons with Burger Topping Salad. That was fun...

I've gotten quite obsessed with a kind of Turkish helva (aka halvah), known as "flour helva". It exists at some sort of culinary intersection between fudge and bechamel sauce, and is a popular home-made sweet in Turkey. If you are interested in the real thing, there are a lot of recipes including You-Tube videos out there. However, I thought it had real possibilities for being adapted to be much lower in sugar and carbohydrates. My version, therefore, is not going to be much like it should be, but it is something I can eat (in moderation) and I have been enjoying it very much as a Christmas treat. 

It seemed quite complicated as I read the reference recipes; it didn't help that they were all read through the prism of Google translate. However, in the end, it turned out to be really very simple once I understood the procedures. I was a bit nervous that the sugar solution ought to be boiled to a syrup, but in recipe after recipe it was not, which I believe is the reason that it could be adapted to being much lower in sugar. 

 

After I made the version below I tried it again with maple syrup; in that case measure 1/3 cup of dark maple syrup into a half-cup measure and fill up the rest with the water or other liquid as described. (I used plain water but I can see it being really good with coffee.) Also delicious.

The end result is probably a bit more cookie-like in texture than the original fudge-like version as a consequence of the greatly reduced sugar, but I find it very tasty and really, quite a big thrill! Back to the straight and narrow after the holidays. On which note, it's time to take a break. Happy Holidays to everyone! And happy (post) Solstice - the days are getting longer!

 

12 to 24 pieces

20 minutes prep time 

 

1/4 cup cinnamon tea OR water, juice, etc.

1/4 cup honey

2 tablespoons sugar OR monkfruit-erythritol sweetener

a pinch of salt

1/4 teaspoon almond extract

Brew a sweet herbal tea (I used Celestial Seasonings Apple-Cinnamon) or use plain water. I would also be inclined to experiment with pure fruit juices and perhaps coffee. To use maple syrup as the sweetener, use 1/3 cup of it and enough other liquid to bring the total to 1/2 cup as it's less concentrated than honey.

Put 1/4 cup of the tea or water in a smallish pot with the honey, salt, and sweetener. Heat over low heat until melted. Let cool for a few minutes then stir in the almond extract.

1 cup barley flour

1 cup almond flour

1/2 cup unsalted butter

Meanwhile, put the barley flour in a heavy-bottomed 2-quart (litre) pot. Heat it over medium heat, stirring frequently to constantly, until the barley flour toasts to a very light brown. Add the almond flour and continue stirring and toasting until the mixture is a fairly medium brown - about as brown as a pale brown paper bag. Add the butter, and mix it in as it melts. Continue cooking and stirring until the mixture is evenly crumbly, and a good medium paper bag brown. 

Add the contents of Pan #1 to Pan #2, being very careful - it will boil up and want to spatter. Mix well as soon as it is all in, until it forms a doughy ball. Turn it out onto a plate and let it cool for 10 minutes. Press it into an oiled 9" x 9" pan, or into candy molds, etc. I used my Madeleine pans, and got 12 pieces. Let set for at least 1 hour before turning out, and cutting it into pieces if it's a single slab. 

They last well for up to 2 weeks in a well-sealed tin kept in a cool spot. 

Last year at this time I made Braised Oxtails with Apples & Sweet Potatoes.

I served these as a side dish with steak, but they would make an interesting starter course. Mine were also filled with creamed spinach, but they are quite fine on their own. They might make a good way to serve potatoes if you are serving from a buffet.  You could make them small enough to be manageable as finger food, although in that case I suspect you should bake them for a slightly shorter time. 

It has to be admitted this is a bit of a gimmick, but it's one that is both do-able and eat-able (with pleasure), which is more than can be said of a lot of foody gimmicks.

 

4 to 6 servings

8 to 16 cream puffs

40 minutes - 10 minutes prep time

NOT including baking the potatoes

 

1 cup very smooth mashed potato (2 medium)

1/4 cup unsalted butter

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup potato starch

other seasonings to taste, such as pepper, nutmeg, or chives

2 large eggs

 

Bake the potatoes until tender then cool them, and run them through food mill. This can be done up to 24 hours in advance.

 

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

 

Melt the butter in large heavy bottomed pot with the salt; mix in the finely mashed potato. Mix in the potato starch and seasonings - you want at least a little pepper, but season them to taste - until it comes together to form a ball. Remove the pot from the heat. 

 

In a few minutes when the mixture is sufficiently cool not to set them, beat in the eggs one at a time with an electric mixer. Beat for 2 minutes. Form the mixture into little buns spread out on the parchment paper, and bake them for 15 minutes. Reset the heat to 325°F and bake for 15 minutes more. Serve at once.  

Last year at this time I made Beet Mousse. Yeah, yeah: mid December is when I tend to have fits of playing with my food.

I have come to love roasted salads in the late fall and winter; they do such an excellent job of hitting the sweet spot between hot and hearty fare, and a healthy pile of vegetables. Za'atar and tahini give this one a Middle-Eastern twist, although the veg are right out of the garden.  

In theory, you could make the dressing while the roasted vegetables cool slightly, but it's better to make it earlier, as soon as they go into the oven, so the flavours can blend and settle a bit.

 

2 to 4 servings

1 hour - 30 minutes prep time 

3/4 teaspoon coriander seed

3/4 teaspoon cumin seed

1 teaspoon rubbed savory

2 teaspoons sesame seeds

2 teaspoons sumac

1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon Aleppo pepper

1/4 teaspoon salt

Grind the coriander and cumin seeds, then mix them with the remaining ingredients in a small bowl and set aside. 

2 cups cooked, well-drained chick peas

4 to 6 shallots

1 large carrot

1/4 cup olive oil

4 to 5 cups (1 kilo; 2 pounds) sliced Brussels sprouts

 

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a baking tray with parchment paper. Spread the chick peas over it. Peel and sliver the shallots, and add them. Peel and thinly slice the carrot, and add it. Drizzle them all with the olive oil and mix, then sprinkle over the za'atar and mix again. Spread them all out as evenly as you can. Roast for 10 to 15 minutes. 

Meanwhile, wash, trim, and slice the Brussels sprouts into 2 to 4 slices each, depending on size. Mix them in with the roasting vegetables and return the pan to the oven to roast for a further 20 to 25 minutes, until the Brussels sprouts are browned in spots and the chick peas are dry and a bit crispy. Let rest for 10 minutes. 

1 large clove of garlic

the finely grated zest of 1/2 lemon

2 tablespoons tahini

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

the juice of 1/2 lemon

3 tablespoons mayonnaise (light is fine)

 

Peel and mince the garlic and place it in a small bowl. Grate in the lemon zest. Add the salt and pepper. Add the tahini and mustard and mix it all to a smooth paste. 

 

Mix in the lemon juice a little at a time to keep the dressing smooth and lump free. Once it is all in, mix in the mayonnaise. 

 

Transfer the salad to a serving platter or plates, and drizzle with the dressing. Serve while still a little warm.

 

 

 

 

Last year at this time I made Tau Pok & Brussels Sprouts.  

This is a pretty classic comfort-food tuna casserole, but for the fact that the usual pasta has been swapped out for quinoa. I always cook more quinoa than we will eat when I make it the first time; it keeps so well and is so handy to have for so many dishes. You can add this one to that list. 

It's a fairly large casserole; if you don't want leftover leftovers, you could cut in in half quite easily. I sprinkled a few tablespoons of water on the leftovers, covered it in foil, and reheated it in the oven to good success, though.

 

4 to 6 servings

1 hour 30 minutes - 45 minutes prep time

NOT including cooking the quinoa

 

3/4 cup quinoa

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 1/4 cups water 

Into the rice cooker with them; turn it on; cook. Remove as soon as it is done. You could also use 2 to 2 1/2 cups leftover cooked quinoa, without or with vegetables in it; adjust the other vegetables if necessary.

1 stalk of celery

2 medium leeks OR 1 large onion

1 medium carrot

1 or 2 cloves of garlic (optional)

125 grams (1/4 pound) button mushrooms

2 tablespoons mild vegetable oil

1/4 cup barley OR other flour

2 teaspoons rubbed savory, thyme OR other herb of choice

2 cups whole milk or light cream

2 cups frozen peas, thawed

2 133-g when drained tins of tuna (chunk)

1 cup grated old Cheddar cheese

1 cup bread crumbs

 

Wash, trim, and chop the celery. Wash and trim the leeks, and chop them, or peel and chop the onion. Peel and grate the carrot. Peel and mince the garlic. Clean, trim, and chop the mushrooms. 

 

Preheat the oven to 350°F. 

 

Heat the oil in a medium skillet, or better in a shallow casserole dish that can also be used on the stove-top. Cook the celery, leeks or onions, and carrots over medium-high heat, stirring regularly, until softened and reduces in volume. Add the garlic, flour, and other seasonings and mix in well, cooking for another minute or so until well blended and fragrant. 

Remove the pan from the heat. Stir in the milk or cream, the thawed peas, the drained tuna broken into chunks, and the quinoa. Spread it all out smoothly. 

Mix the cheese and bread crumbs, and sprinkle them evenly over the casserole. Bake at 350°F for 45 to 50 minutes until nicely browned. Let it rest for 5 minutes before serving.

 

 

 

 

Last year at this time I made Spiced Boiled Fruitcake. 

Well, you know; it's another scalloped root vegetable dish, and very good too. Are there any root vegetables - and a good few others - that are not improved by creamy sauce and buttery, cheesy bread crumbs? None that I know of. Go for it!

 

4 to 6 servings

1 hour 40 minutes - 40 minutes prep time

2 cups sliced parsnips

2 cups sliced carrots

1 small onion

2 cloves of garlic

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 cup milk or 10% cream

1/4 teaspoon salt

freshly ground black pepper to taste

a good grind of nutmeg

1 cup bread crumbs

1/2 cup grated Parmesan or other sharp cheese

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

Put a pot of water on to boil for the vegetables. Peel and trim the parsnips and carrots, and cut them into thin slices. Boil them for 6 to 8 minutes, until tender. Drain them well. Peel the onions and garlic. Slice the onion and mince the garlic.

While the parsnips and carrots cook, preheat the oven to 350°F. Use the butter to grease a 2-quart (8" x 10") shallow baking (lasagne) pan. 

Mix the salt, pepper, and nutmeg into the cream. 

When the vegetables are tender, drain them well. Spread about 1/3 of them in the prepared pan, then spread 1/2 of the onion and garlic over them. Top with 1/2 of the remaining parsnips and carrots, then the remaining onions and garlic, and finally the remaining parsnip and carrots. Pour the cream evenly over them. 

Mix the bread crumbs, cheese, and butter together until well combined and none of the crumbs seem dry. Sprinkle this mixture over the prepared vegetables. Bake at 350°F for about 1 hour until browned and bubbling.

Marinated mushrooms were a popular party food when I was a kid, back in the '60s and '70s, and I really liked them. Our old family recipe from that time was: clean and prepare the mushrooms and put them in a jar with a bottle of commercial Italian dressing overnight. Various home-made efforts have frankly never been quite as good until now. 

 

The breakthrough I need to make them from scratch was the realization that they need enough oil. I was always trying to make them less oily, but the oil is absolutely required. This recipe is adapted from one I found in a cook book of recipes from Luchow's, a famous New York German restaurant, published in the 1950s, although in addition to omitting 2 cups of white wine (!) I have cut the brine in half. It's plenty. Strain it off in any case when you to to serve them. Next time I think I would also dust them with a tablespoon or so of fresh finely minced parsley as they get served, just to brighten them up a bit.

You can stick them on toothpicks as a picklish appetizer, or serve them with salad. They would make a nice topping for steak or chicken, or go into sandwiches.

 

8 to 12 servings

30 minutes prep time - 24 hours rest time

 

1 small onion OR 2 shallots

2 cloves of garlic

1 bay leaf

1/4 teaspoon black peppercorns

1/2 teaspoon rubbed savory OR thyme

1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon Aleppo pepper

the finely grated zest of 1/2 lemon

the juice of 1/2 lemon

1/2 cup water

1/2 cup apple cider vinegar OR white wine vinegar

 

Peel and mince the onion or shallots. Peel and mince the garlic. Put them, with all the other ingredients, into a 2-quart non-reactive pot (stainless steel or glass). 

 

450 grams (1 pound) small white button mushrooms

1/4 cup finely minced parsley

1 clove of garlic

Clean and trim the mushrooms. If they are larger than a single bite, cut them in half. Wash, dry and mince the parsley. Peel and mince the garlic. 

Bring the marinade to a boil and boil for 3 minutes, then add the mushrooms and boil for 5 minutes. Remove them from the heat and allow them to cool for another 10 minutes or so. When cooled to just barely warm, mix in the parsley and remaining garlic. Transfer them, with the marinade, to a very clean (or better, sterilized) 1-litre (quart) jar. Allow to cool completely and keep stored in the fridge until wanted; 24 hours to 4 days - best at the 24 hour mark. 

Last year at this time I made Red Cabbage with Pears.

Duck time! I slow-roasted a whole duck to start with, then this is one of the things I made with the leftovers. You could use sautéed sliced duck breast instead, but I looked at the price of 2 duck breasts versus the price of a whole duck, and basically I could have the legs and the rest of the duck thrown in for an additional cost of less than a quarter of the price of buying just the breasts. I just can't help being frugal even if it means I spend more money - after all, it also means I get more duck. Duck fat! Duck stock! Duck Stroganoff!

However you get your duck, this is a delicious way to serve it. I recommend adding the dill pickle, if you have it. I have to say I find I want a little sour note in my meat dishes more and more as I get older - it is so often exactly what they need. 

We had a bumper crop of celeriac this year, so I am looking for things to do with it, but this would admittedly be just as good with noodles, potatoes, or rice.

 

4 servings

30 minutes to prepare and cook the celeriac

45 minutes prep time to finish the dish

 

 

1/4 cup flour

3/4 teaspoon salt

freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 teaspoon sweet Hungarian paprika

1 teaspoon rubbed savory OR thyme

2 cloves of garlic

225 grams mushrooms

1 large leek

2 duck breasts OR 3 cups diced cooked duck meat

2 to 3 tablespoons duck OR bacon fat

2 cups duck OR chicken stock

1/2 cup sour cream

1 medium dill pickle, diced OPTIONAL

 

Mix the flour and seasonings in a small bowl. Peel and mince the garlic and add it. 

 

Clean, trim, and chop the mushrooms. Wash, trim, and chop the leek. 

If using raw duck breast, cut them into 1/4" slices, and saute them in a tablespoon of fat until nicely browned on both sides. Transfer to a dish to wait. Otherwise, check your duck meat that it is free of bones and cut into neat bite-sized pieces. 

Heat the fat in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms and toss them into the fat, then let them cook for several minutes until they begin to brown. Add the leek and reduce the heat slightly. Continue to cook, stirring regularly, until the leek softens and reduces slightly in volume, but don't let it brown. 

Add the little bowl of flour and seasonings, and mix in well until no white can be seen. Slowly mix in the stock, then add the duck pieces and let the mixture simmer until thickened. Mix in the sour cream (and the diced pickle, if desired), and let it heat through, but do not allow it to simmer again. Serve with the well-drained dumplings.

 

 

 

 

Last year at this time I made Lemon-Mustard Brussels Sprouts. 

When it comes to simple but rich vegetable presentations, the traditional Canadian cook turned to white or cream sauce - potentially very boring. Maybe that's why it's taken me this long to make creamed Brussels sprouts - and I am so sorry about it now. These are truly delicious! Why haven't I been making them for decades?!

 

Of course, like creamed anything, they are pretty rich - best served with plain roasted meat - poultry or fish in particular - although I had this with my old stand-by Lentil Loaf with Carrots, and thought they went really well together. I think a little dusting of good strong cheese finished them off very well, but it isn't required. 

 

Nutmeg is often the secret ingredient in cream sauces, as it is here. And do let the sprouts brown a bit in the butter before making the sauce - that really added to the flavour. 

 

4 servings

20 minutes prep time

500 grams (1 pound) Brussels sprouts

2 tablespoons flour

1/4 teaspoon salt

freshly ground black pepper to taste

a few scrapes of nutmeg

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 1/2 cups 5% or 10% cream

a few tablespoons grated Parmesan, optional

 

Wash and trim the Brussels sprouts, and cut them in 3 or 4 slices, according to size. Put about an inch of water in a skillet that has a lid, bring it to a boil over medium-high heat. Meanwhile, mix the flour, salt, pepper, and nutmeg and set it aside.

 

Add the Brussels sprouts to the boiling water. Boil for 4 minutes. Drain well, but keep them in the pan. Add the butter and return them to the heat. Cook for about another 4 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the sprouts have browned a bit all over. 

Sprinkle the flour, etc, over the sprouts and mix in. Cook and mix until there are no white flecks of flour left. Reduce the heat to low and pour in the cream. Mix constantly, scraping up the bits on the bottom of the pan, until the sprouts are in a smooth, thick sauce. Transfer to a serving dish and serve at once. Sprinkle with a little grated cheese first, if desired.

 

 

 

 

Last year at this time I made Lemon-Mustard Brussels Sprouts.

I first made these for Christmas last year, and have been looking forward to having them again all year. They are so good! Rye makes a very smooth-textured shortbread, and much mellower in flavour than you might think. I love the bread spice blend with the chocolate; it's really quite amazing.

 

You could add a bit more sugar if you liked; conversely, you could replace at least some of it with erythritol-monkfruit sweetener. Sprinkling the tops with some large-grained decorator's sugar might also be an easy way to bring up the sweetness slightly. I thought they were lovely the way they were, though.

 

As always with cookies, baking time may vary according to how thick you make them, so do start checking them on the early side to be safe. 

 

16 to 24 cookies

40 minutes - 20 minutes prep time

 

1 cup whole rye flour

1/4 cup cocoa powder

1/4 cup potato starch

1/4 cup sugar

1/8 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon bread spice

2/3 cup soft unsalted butter

 

Cut a piece of parchment paper to fit a baking tray. 

 

Sift all the dry ingredients into a mixing bowl and mix well. Work in the butter to make a very smooth dough. Pat it out on the parchment paper to about 1/3" to 1/2" thick and cut it into fingers or squares. Prick each cookie at least once with a fork. Space them out on the paper. 

Put the pan of cookies into the freezer for 10 minutes, while you preheat the oven. Preheat the oven to 325°F. Bake the cookies for 18 to 22 minutes, until firm. Let cool on a rack before removing them. Keep them in a cool, dry spot. 

Last year at this time I made Pumpkin or Sweet Potato Baked Oatmeal.

This was a lovely soup; fragrant with spices and just a little sweet. It's got some substance, but it is still light enough to serve at the start of a meal, or have it with a sandwich to round it out.  

 

We got a good leek crop this year - they are improving in size by the end of autumn very nicely. 

 

4 servings

40 minutes prep time

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon anise seeds

1/4 teaspoon allspice berries

1/4 teaspoon black peppercorns

a good grating of nutmeg

2 tablespoons barley or wheat flour

 

Grind the spices together, other than the nutmeg, then put them in a small bowl. Grate the nutmeg over them and mix in the flour. 

 

Make the Soup:

2 medium leeks (2 cups chopped)

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

3 or 4 medium Bosc pears (1 1/2 cups diced)

2 cups unsalted chicken OR vegetable stock

1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar

2 tablespoons sherry

1/3 cup 10% cream

 

Wash and trim the leeks. Cut them in half lengthwise, and give them a good rinse again; drain well. Chop finely. 

 

Heat the butter in a heavy-bottomed soup pot over medium heat. Add the leeks and reduce the heat to just barely sizzling. Cook the leeks for 10 minutes, stirring regularly. Don't let them brown. While they cook, peel, core, and finely chop the pears.

 

Sprinkle the flour and spices over the leeks and mix in well. After a minute, add the pears and continue cooking for 2 or 3 minutes, stirring frequently. Slowly mix in the chicken stock, then add the vinegar and sherry. Simmer gently for 10 to 15 minutes, stirring regularly. 

Add the cream and bring the soup back up to steaming hot. Do not let it simmer, and serve as soon as it is hot through. 

Last year at this time I made Baked Sweet Potato Samosas and Sauce Soubise - not to go together; I really don't see that!

Here's an easy squash dish with a Middle-Eastern twist. It would be a delightful accompaniment to a Tray Kebob, or Lamb Kofta. 

Our butternut squash did much better than they did last year, but last year we got 2. Two entire squashes. That was because they were in our worst bed AND it was not a good year for squash. While we have more this year, I am not finding them the greatest - a little too moist and bland thanks to coolish temperature through late summer and fall, and lots - lots - of rain. If you feel that is a problem for yours too, it can be improved by drying the cooked, mashed flesh in a frying pan until reduced in volume and very slightly caramelized. And of course, all the flavours of this recipe will do slightly sub-par squash nothing but good. Hopefully, though, yours are fine.

 

4 servings

1 hour 30 minutes - 15 minutes prep time

 

2 tablespoons tahini

the juice of 1/2 lemon 

1 or 2 tablespoons of water

 

Put the tahini in a small bowl, and mix in the lemon juice a little at a time to make a smooth paste. Thin it with a little water to make it the consistency of slightly runny mayonnaise. This can be done while the squash roasts. 

1 kilo (2 1/4 pounds) butternut squash

a little mild vegetable oil

2 tablespoons butter

salt & freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 or 2 teaspoons chile-garlic sauce

1 tablespoon (more or less) za'atar 

 

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Cut the squash in half and scoop out the seeds and stringy pulp. Rub the cut surfaces with a little oil, and lay them face-down on a shallow roasting pan or baking tray. Roast until tender, about an hour to an hour and a quarter. 

 

When the squash is done, scoop the flesh into a shallow bowl and mash it well with the butter, salt, pepper, and chile-garlic sauce. Put it in a serving dish and smooth it out. Sprinkle the za'atar over it evenly, then drizzle on the tahini sauce. Serve at once. 

 

 

 

 

Last year at this time I made Baked Sweet Potato Samosas. 

Apparently, it's not just salads that I think are improved by fruit and nuts. (Look, ma! No cheese!) I realized last spring just how good turnips are with nuts, and the sweetness of a little fruit also balances out their zingy sharpness very well. At this time of year Mr. Ferdzy generally has a box of clementines on the go, so one of them went in too. I have to admit it got a little lost; if you don't have one put in 1/4 cup apple juice or water. 

 

4 to 6 servings

1 hour 30 minutes - 20 minutes prep time

6 to 8 small (500 grams; 1 pound)  turnips

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 large apple

1 large pear

1/3 cup chopped walnuts

the juice of 1 clementine

salt & freshly ground black pepper to taste

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Put the butter into a shallow 2-quart/litre baking pan, and put it in the oven to melt. Wash, trim, and peel the turnips, and cut them into wedges. Toss them into the melted butter and roast them for 30 minutes, until beginning to be easily pierced with a fork. (Give them a little longer if necessary.) Ideally, they will fit the pan snugly but in a single layer. (Yes, mine were a bit too crowded.)

 

Peel and core the apple and pear, and cut them into similar to slightly larger wedges than the turnips. Toss them in with the turnips with the chopped walnuts. Squeeze the juice from the clementine, and pour it over them. Season with salt and pepper. Give everything another toss to blend well, and return to the oven for another 20 to 30 minutes, until everything (well, not the walnuts) is soft and perhaps browning slightly at the edges. Serve at once.

 

 

 

 

Last year at this time I made Squash & Brussels Sprouts Parmigiano. 

I really, really did intend to get away from the cheese at last, but I made the leek rolls, and put them in the pan, and there they were - totally naked, and not in a good way. They needed something to keep them moist. They needed cheese. Okay. Although I think a less cheesy solution of buttered bread crumbs and Parmesan in modest quantities would also work.

Now that I have a technique down for stuffing leeks, I think they are so terrific. About the same level of difficulty to make as lasagne (which is to say, a little picky but not at all difficult) and with that same impressive presentation. And cheese; let's not forget the cheese.

 

This is not just impressive looking, it's impressive tasting, and I'm afraid that with the price of some of the ingredients the grocery bill will also be quite impressive, and not in a good way, again. Still, sometimes one must splash out a little. 

I used Friulano, which I like so much, but mozzarella may be easier to get. At any rate, it should be a moderately mild cheese, to allow the smoked trout to really shine.

 

4 servings

40 minutes advance preparation time

1 hour 30 minutes - (40 minutes prep time) to finish

1/2 cup raw wild rice

1 1/2 cups water

1/8 teaspoon salt

4 large (600 grams; 1.5 pounds) leeks

4 cups loosely-packed raw spinach

OR 150 grams (5 ounces) cooked spinach

 

Put the wild rice, water, and salt into a rice-cooker and cook. Once it is done, remove it from the pot promptly. 

 

Put a pot of water on to boil. Trim and wash the leeks. When you have the solid shank part of each one trimmed, cut it from top to bottom half-way through. This will allow you to pull out the centre of the leek, leaving 5 or 6 layers. Boil the outer layers for 4 or 5 minutes, then lift them from the boiling water, rinse them in cold water, and drain them well. (Set the inner leaves aside but keep them.) 

Wash and pick over the spinach while the leeks blanch. Blanch the spinach for just a minute or so, then rinse in cold water and drain well. Squeeze out as much water from them as you easily can, then chop them finely. 

All of these things can be done up to a day ahead, and the prepared ingredients kept refrigerated until needed.

2 medium shallots

1 or 2 cloves of garlic

125 grams (1/4 pound) button mushrooms

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 teaspoon rubbed basil

1/4 teaspoon salt

freshly ground black pepper to taste

a little grating of nutmeg

125 grams (1/4 pound; 1/2 fillet) smoked trout  

1 medium egg

250 grams (1/2 pound) smoked trout

3/4 cup 5% or 10% cream

100 grams grated mozzarella OR Friulano cheese

1/4 cup finely grated Parmesan cheese

Peel and mince the shallots and garlic. Clean, trim, and slice the mushrooms - slice them in half again if the mushrooms are large. Finely chop the leftover inner leaves of the leeks.

 

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly oil or butter a 1 1/2 quart/litre shallow baking pan. 

 

Heat the butter in a large skillet, and cook the shallots over medium heat, stirring regularly, until softened. Add the leeks and mushrooms and continue cooking, stirring regularly, until they too are softened and reduced in volume. Add the seasonings, and the garlic and cook for a minute or two more. 

 

Turn the cooked vegetables into a mixing bowl and add the wild rice and finely chopped spinach. Break in the egg. Break the trout into flakes, discarding the skin, and add it to the mixing bowl. Add 1/4 cup of the cream. Stir gently to combine. 

Take 2 or 3 leaves of the blanched outer leaves of the leeks, spreading them out to form a rectangle. Put in enough filling in a line across the middle, and fold the leek leaves closed around them. Place the resulting filled leek leaves into the prepared pan. Continue filling the leek leaves until they are all done. Pour the remaining cream evenly over them. 

Grate the cheeses, and sprinkle them evenly over the pan of leeks. Bake for 50 minutes to an hour, until the cheese is bubbly and lightly browned. Let rest 5 minutes before serving.

 

 

 

 

Last year at this time I made Beets au gratin. 

Oh yeah; look! It's cheese again. 

 

This takes a while in the oven, but is really quick and easy to prepare. And yes, it's basically more vegetables au gratin. I do occasionally think my cheese habit is problematic, but not enough to give it up. Hot, melty cheese is the best, and spaghetti squash is delightful with it.

 

A green vegetable or salad, and a roll or some bread and butter, will round out the meal and make it complete. In theory I suppose it could be served as a side vegetable, but it would be a pretty substantial one - the main dish would need to be a fairly light chicken or fish dish I would say.

 

2 servings

1 hour 45 minutes - 30 minutes prep time

 

a 1 kg (2 pound) spaghetti squash

60 grams (2 ounces) Cheddar cheese

60 grams (2 ounces) Gruyere, Gouda, or Friulano cheese

60 grams (2 ounces) Parmesan cheese

1/4 teaspoon dry rosemary leaves, ground

1 teaspoon rubbed oregano

1 teaspoon rubbed basil

1/4 teaspoon salt

freshly ground black pepper to taste

2/3 cup 10% cream OR yogurt

1/2 cup breadcrumbs

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

 

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Cut the squash in half from stem to blossom scar, and scoop out the seeds and stringy bits. Rub the cut surfaces with a little vegetable oil and sprinkle them with a little salt. Bake the squash for about 1 hour and 15 minutes, until tender. 

 

About 15 minutes before the squash is tender, grate the cheeses and mix them with the seasonings and the cream or yogurt. You may wish to leave half the Parmesan out to mix with the breadcrumbs. 

Mix the breadcrumbs with the butter until well combined and crumbly. Mix in the saved Parmesan, if in fact you saved any. 

When the squash is done, fluff up the flesh with a fork until it is all loosened and light. Mix half the cheese mixture into the strands of each half of the squash. Spread them out evenly, and sprinkle evenly with the buttered crumbs. Return the squash to the oven for about 20 minutes, until the cheese is melted and the crumbs are browned. If you think the crumbs are not browned as much as you would like by the time the cheese is melted, put them under the broiler for a couple of minutes, but watch them, as they will brown very quickly. 

Let rest for about 5 minutes then serve. 

Last year at this time I made Braised Daikon & Carrots.

Yes, I'm having a fennel obsession at the moment. What about it? It could be worse! I've also been making things a bit in advance because I am going to have my long-awaited (20 years!) cataract operation at the end of this week, and don't want to be distracting myself with cooking. No interruptions to the anxious obsessing! But I think it is, in fact, now a bit late to find local fennel.

 

I've done a lot of delicious things with fennel recently, but this may be the absolute best of the bunch. Of course, it's got mushrooms, and it's got cheese, so no surprise there. I love those things even more as much as fennel. Add some crunchy bread crumbs, and YUM. I think the touch of fenugreek is what really makes this, so don't leave it out!

Serve this with some fairly plain chicken or fish, or as part of a vegetarian ensemble.

 

4 servings

45 minutes - 15 minutes prep time

 

1/2 cup coarse bread crumbs 

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1/2 cup grated Gouda or Emmentaler type cheese

 

Rub the butter into the crumbs, and mix in the grated cheese. Set aside until needed. 

2 medium bulbs of fennel

125 grams oyster mushrooms

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/8 teaspoon fenugreek seeds

3/4 teaspoon cumin seeds

1/4 teaspoon black peppercorns

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon flour

1/2 cup 10% cream

 

Preheat the oven to 375°F. 

 

Wash and trim the fennel bulb, discarding the tough upper stems and core. Slice it fairly thinly. Clean and trim the mushrooms, discarding any tough stems and damaged bits. Chop them coarsely. Arrange the fennel and mushrooms in a shallow baking dish that will hold them to a layer of about an inch deep. Intersperse them with small cubes of the butter.

Grind the fenugreek, cumin, and black pepper with the salt, and put the spices in a small bowl with the flour. Slowly mix in the cream to make a smooth paste. Drizzle this over the prepared vegetables. Sprinkle the crumb and cheese topping evenly over them. 

Bake for about 30 to 40 minutes until the topping is browned and crisp and the fennel is tender. 

Last year at this time I made Squash Kibbeh.

We did a bit of a turnip grow-out this year. It's a well-known fact (if you read this blog) that I am taken with occasional fits of inexplicable enthusiasm, and for some reason last year, during seed-catalogue season, I was taken with a fit of enthusiasm for turnips. For one thing, there was a good selection of some unusual varieties. 

 

The prominent long black ones in the front left are Noir Long du Pardailhan. Next to them, in the lower right are Scarlet Ohno Revival. The top right are Aprovecho Hardy, and to the left of them are Goldana and Goldette, which not too surprisingly got a bit confused during harvest. I don't recall ever seeing green shoulders on Goldana, though, so maybe those are the Goldettes; however even if that's the case I'm pretty sure not all the Goldettes had them. 

Noir Long du Pardailhan is a rare survivor of  a very old form of turnip, from the village of Pardailhan in France. The slightly larger size, elongated carrot shape, and rough, grey-black skin make them almost unrecognizable as turnips today. You are looking at pretty much all the harvest we got of them, other than a smaller one which we have already eaten. I think they are certainly capable of doing better; we threw in the seeds mid-summer and left them to their own devices subsequently. We should have at least thinned them. It is fortunate that the voles do not seem too interested in turnips. 

In spite of their seeming coarseness, the flesh was as white, smooth, sweet, and tender as any other, and better than some. Thus far I am not inclined to quite such effusions as the Slow Food page linked above, but it perhaps depends some on soil (ours is about as different from the native clay as possible) and perhaps once we eat the better specimens we will be even more impressed. Already, I think these are very good turnips, and I would certainly grow them again.

 

The Scarlet Ohno Revival is one I have had my eye on since we first started gardening here, but it has been hard to find. Few people carried it, and those who did we ended up not ordering from for lack of other desired choices. However, last year it was suddenly available at a few Canadian seed houses. These are by far the most attractive of the turnips we grew this year, with a rich beety magenta colour to skins, stems, and leaves. Inside they are white, perhaps blushed with pink. They also produced as many good specimens as any of the types we planted. I put one into the stew I made to test out all these turnips (Spanish Beef & Turnip Stew) and it was tasty and smooth, but definitely firmer and slower to cook than any of the others. I'm not sure it was an ideal specimen to test, though; it was a good 4" in diameter and had a certain amount of insect damage, which is why we wanted to eat it and not store it. But size tends to bring toughness to turnips - although even at that size I wouldn't say this was tough - and insect damage doesn't tend to improve flavour, at all. I left the skins on because I wanted to see how it did cooked, and it kept a nice colour and was perfectly edible. Excellent! This is another one I'll want to grow again. 

Scarlet Ohno Revival comes to us through the good work of Frank Morton of Wild Garden Seeds and OSSI. The original Scarlet Ohno was a Japanese variety, apparently once but no longer available in North America, and recreated by Frank Morton from similar and other-named but likely the same turnips. We're glad he did! I'm going to grow THESE again too. Are you detecting a theme yet? 

 

We got Aprovecho Hardy from Adaptive Seeds, and it is another OSSI registered variety. We found these to be one of the slower growing of the turnips this year, but overall their performance was fairly similar to the others. There are a couple of big ones, but most of them stayed fairly small. In spite of their (untested by us yet) hardiness, they were thin-skinned and very tender with a fine flavour. There were a few oddly shaped, off-type ones, but most of them were charming little white-skinned balls, with or without purple or green collars. Same old story! Happy to have them; will grow them again. 

 

These came out of breeding work by Alan Kapuler in Oregon; and it should perhaps be noted that when they say hardy, they mean Oregon hardy and maybe not Ontario hardy. I was about to say I would find out, but I think we've dug them all, so not this year I guess.  

Finally, we have the Goldana and the Goldette. We have been getting Goldana from William Dam for a few years now, and it has been (and maybe continues... don't know... must try a few more...) to be my favourite turnip. I've written about it already. We got Goldette from Annapolis Seeds even though it sounded very similar, and it is. We weren't careful during harvest and they got mixed up, and I can't really tell which are which, apart from the above-mentioned green shoulders, although perhaps it will be clearer if we eat some. But I doubt it. I don't think you can go wrong with either one; golden turnips are truly unique and excellent. They really don't taste as sharp as the white fleshed ones, and if you are not mad about the white ones, give one of the golden ones a try. 

As for me, it will not surprise anyone to hear that I would really like to try crossing the Scarlet Ohno Revival and perhaps Goldette (or Goldana) next year, to see what happens. I may not be able to; we only planted a row or so of each, which we then did not thin, and so most of the harvest is in the photo above. I'm not sure how well they will keep overwinter, always assuming we don't just eat them anyway. But it's something to think about. Perhaps if I started some in a pot indoors, and planted them out while it was still fairly cold in the spring, I could trick them into thinking it was time to go to seed. Hmmm.

Scale this recipe up to however many pears you wish to bake. They will keep in the fridge for several days so you might as well do a good few. They are perfect for dessert, and also for breakfast - maybe with cottage cheese, although I had mine with yogurt and thought that was a great combination. 

 

I do think they are best slightly warm or at room temperature. It's easy to take the chill off leftovers with a few seconds in the microwave - just enough to soften the butter, right on up to quite warm, if that's your preference.

 

I used cranberry juice, but any pure fruit juice will likely be fine. I can also see using rum or sherry instead, if you are feeling fancy. If you use Bartlett or Anjou pears I suspect they will bake more quickly - check them at 15 minutes and half an hour. 

 

per serving

1 hour - 15 minutes prep time

 

1 large ripe Bosc pear

1 teaspoon honey

1 teaspoon butter

1 tablespoon fruit juice

Crush the pod of cardamom and discard the green papery husk. Grind the remaining seed and mix it in a small bowl with the nutmeg and cloves - remember, this is per pear. 

 

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Peel the pear(s) and cut them in half. Carefully slice out the stem and core from each half. Put them in a shallow baking pan which will hold then snugly in a single layer. Dot them with the honey, butter, and fruit juice.

 

Bake them at 350°F for about 20 minutes, then baste them with the juices accumulated in the pan. Bake for a further 20 to 25 minutes, until tender. Serve warm or at room temperature, perhaps with yogurt, ice cream, or custard. 

Last year at this time I made Polish Seasoning Blend. And - yes, really - Gingerbread Poached Pears.

This is very like the ever-popular Broccoli & Cheddar Soup, only with Brussels sprouts instead of broccoli. It's just as good, and if you are a sprouts lover, maybe even better! It's pretty rich and filling, so a little bread and butter will round it out and make it a complete meal. 

Leftovers will be fine the next day, heated gently, but like a lot of green vegetable soups it doesn't keep as well as some other soups; so do not make it too far in advance. Fortunately it's a pretty quick and simple soup to make.

 

4 servings

45 minutes - 30 minutes prep time

 

2 large shallots

1 medium carrot

1 stalk celery

5 to 6 cups chopped Brussels sprouts

 

Peel and mince the shallots. Peel and grate the carrot. Wash, trim, and finely chop the celery. Set them aside together. 

 

Wash, trim, and chop the Brussels sprouts. Set them aside on their own. 

2 cloves of garlic

1/4 teaspoon dried rosemary leaves

1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns

1/2 teaspoon salt

3 tablespoons barley (or wheat) flour

 

Peel and mince the garlic, and put it in a small bowl. Grind the rosemary leaves and peppercorns with the salt, and add them to the garlic. Add the flour. 

1/4 cup unsalted butter

3 cups water OR vegetable broth

1/2 cup 10% cream

1 1/3 cups grated old Cheddar

2/3 cup grated old Cheddar to garnish

Heat the butter in a heavy-bottomed soup pot over medium heat. Add the shallots, carrot, and celery, and cook for 3 or 4 minutes, stirring occasionally, until softened and slightly reduced. Add the Brussels sprouts and raise the heat slightly. Cook for another 6 to 7 minutes, until the Brussels sprouts are well wilted down and lightly browned in spots. Add the bowl of seasonings, mix in well and cook for another minute or so until no white flour can be seen. 

Add the water or broth and mix well. Reduce the heat to low, and let the soup simmer for 10 to 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, then add the cream and the cheese. Stir in until the cheese is melted, and the soup is steaming hot. Serve at once, with the remaining cheese sprinkled on top of the bowls. 

Last year at this time I made Quinoa Salad with Hazelnuts, Red Cabbage, & Parsley.

This is mostly about the pickled fennel, but what I mostly did with it was put it in salads like the one I describe below. It would also be good on sandwiches or hamburgers. It kept very well in the fridge and was very convenient to have on hand, as quick pickles generally are. I tend to think in terms of long-term canning, but I am getting to like the idea of making a small batch of something and having it for just a few weeks.

 

4 to 6 servings

3 days -15 minutes to prep pickles, 15 minutes to make salads 

 

1/2 cup filtered water

1/2 cup white vinegar

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon fennel seed

1 teaspoon mustard seed

1 teaspoon coriander seed

1/2 teaspoon dill seed

1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon red chile flakes

1 medium bulb of fennel (about 1 1/2 cups sliced)

 

Put the water, vinegar, and all the spices into a pot and heat until the salt is dissolved. 

 

Meanwhile, wash, trim, and shred the fennel into thin slices. Pack them into a very clean 500ml canning jar, preferably either sterilized or at least fresh out of the dishwasher. Pour the hot brine over them - with the spices - and cap with a clean lid and ring. Keep in the fridge for at least 2 days to up to a week before using. 

1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard 

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons pickling brine

salt & freshly ground black pepper to taste

Mix or shake all in a small bowl or jam jar - be sure to strain the spices out of the pickling brine first.

 

hydroponic lettuce

pickled fennel shreds

thinly sliced celery OR peeled celeriac shreds 

carrot shreds

finely chopped parsley

Parmesan cheese shreds 

Wash, trim, and tear or chop the lettuce, and arrange it in a salad bowl or individual salad bowls. Top it with fine shreds of the pickled fennel, celery or celeriac, carrots, parsley, and Parmesan cheese. Drizzle the dressing over the salad.

 

 

 

 

Last year at this time I made Duck Pasties and Acorn Squash Soup.