Seasonal Ontario Food

The first of the strawberries have been picked! They seem a little early to me, but in spite of some persistent cool weather there have also been some hot days where things have leapt forwards. It's exciting to see them but a little daunting to think about all the picking in my future, when the weeding is so far behind. 

Really, though, this recipe is about the sponge cake fingers, aka lady's fingers. They are designed to be okay on my "better carb" diet, and incidentally they can be gluten free as well. I may fiddle with the recipe in the future; they were not more exciting than lady's fingers usually are which is to say a bit dry and bland. Mostly useful for soaking in sherry and syrup and covering with custard, fruit and whipped cream. Actually, they would also be nice dunked in tea or sherry to moisten them. 

They also came out flatter than ideal, but they plainly need no more in the way of starch, and the texture was still light and fluffy enough. I may try baking them as a thin cake then cutting them afterwards. I took the leftovers and re-baked them in the oven at 200°F for 40ish minutes, and that made them quite dry and crisp. I suspect just baked as directed they have a shelf-life of a few days but re-baked crisp that they would keep for some time. 

While I would describe the sponge cake fingers as surprisingly quick and easy to make, this whole thing is really best suited to a special occasion - Canada Day coming up in the near future, although strawberry season is a special occasion in itself as far as I'm concerned.

 

6 servings

45 minutes - 30 minutes prep time to make the sponge fingers

15 minutes prep time to make the custard 

15 minutes prep time to assemble the trifle

 

 

 

 

1/4 cup arrowroot starch

1/4 cup potato starch

2 tablespoons coconut flour

Sift these together into a small bowl.  

Line a large baking tray with parchment and preheat the oven to 350°F.

 

In Bowl #2:

3 large egg whites

1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar

2 tablespoons sugar OR sweetener OR combo 

Beat with an electric mixer until the egg whites will form stiff peaks.

 

In Bowl #3:

3 large egg yolks

the finely grated zest of 1/2 small lemon

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

2 tablespoons sugar OR sweetener OR combo 

Measure all the ingredients into a mixing bowl. Beat with the electric mixer for 5 minutes until the mixture has thickened and become a much lighter yellow in colour. It is not necessary to wash the beaters after beating the egg whites.

Fold half the dry ingredients gently into the egg yolk mixture, then fold in half the beaten egg whites. Repeat with the remaining dry ingredients and egg whites. Gently spoon the mixture out onto the parchment, in fingers with a bit of room to spread. You should get 12 of them at about 1/4 cup batter per finger.

Bake them at 350°F for 10 minutes, then rotate the pans and bake for a further 10 minutes. Let them cool for 10 minutes in the pan before removing them to a rack to finish cooling. These can and should be made a day or 2 in advance.

 

Make the Custard:

2 tablespoons arrowroot starch

4 tablespoons sugar OR sweetener OR combo

a pinch of salt

2 large eggs

1 1/2 cups whole milk OR light cream

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 teaspoon vanilla extract 

Mix the arrowroot, sugar/sweetener, and salt in the top of a double boiler. Whisk in the eggs one at a time. 

Turn the heat on under the double boiler and bring it slowly up to a simmer. As it heats, whisk in the milk or cream a little at a time until it is all in. Continue whisking the mixture regularly as it heats, then more frequently as it begins to thicken. Towards the end you must whisk it constantly until it thickens. Remove it from the double boiler at once, then whisk in the butter and vanilla. Let it cool, whisking occasionally to prevent it from forming a skin on top. 

This should be done enough in advance to be cool, and can be done up to a day ahead and kept refrigerated if you wish. 

 

3 cups fresh ripe strawberries

1 tablespoon sugar OR sweetener OR combo

1 cup organic whipping cream

1 tablespoon sugar OR sweetener OR combo

a little sherry OR rum, optional

Set aside a nice selection of the best-looking berries for garnishes; about 1/2 cup of them. Wash and trim the remainder, and mash them with a tablespoon of sugar or sweetener.

Beat the whipping cream with an electric mixer with the remaining tablespoon of sugar or sweetener, until stiff. 

 

Put a puddle of the mashed strawberries in the bottom of each individual serving dish. Break a sponge finger into 2 or 3 pieces and set them in it, on their sides. Spoon a little custard around them on every side then spoon more mashed strawberries over them. A little sherry or rum can be drizzled in at some point during the assembly. Or, this could of course be done in one large serving dish. Something in clear glass so you can see the layers is traditional.

Finish each trifle with a dollop of the whipped cream and a few washed, stemmed strawberries for garnish.

 

Tortillas in Spain are almost always eggs and potatoes, with or without onion (and they will fight about it). I frequently see assurances that tortillas can be made with other fillings, but actual examples are very rare on the ground. 

This take is Basque in origin, and makes a very nice change. I find green vegetables a little short in supply in official Spanish cuisine, but given the number of little gardens clustering every small village, people must eat 'em. Any kind of spring green such as turnip greens or raab, or arugula maybe, could be used here. Spinach is probably most readily available here, but something a little more robust would be the best. Good Spanish ham is also ideal but hard to get. Good Canadian ham will work okay, but it too is hard to get these days - so much of it is soaked in brine and gelatine. Don't bother with that. Use a good bacon if you have to (also not soaked in brine... good luck).

2 to 4 servings

30 minutes - 15 minutes prep time

 

 

1 green onion OR shallot

300 grams (10 ounces) turnip greens OR spinach

150 grams dry ham or cooked bacon bits

6 large chicken eggs

salt & freshly ground black pepper to taste

2 tablespoons olive oil

 

Wash, trim, and chop the onion or shallot. Wash, trim, and chop the greens or spinach. Put them in a mixing bowl. Chop the ham and add it, or if using bacon, chop it and fry it until crisp but not browned. Drain the pieces of excess fat and add them. 

 

Break in the eggs, mixing them in one at a time. Season with salt and pepper to taste. 

 

Heat the oil (or you could use the bacon fat if you have it; but use it in a clean pan to avoid sticking) over medium heat in a large skillet. Once the pan is hot, spread the egg mixture evenly in it.  

As it sets, you can lift it up and tilt the pan to allow raw egg to flow underneath. When it is about half cooked - the top will still be not set - carefully flip it out onto a plate by placing the plate over the pan then turning them both over. Slide the tortilla back into the pan, and pour any raw egg remaining on the plate around the edges. Cook until the tortilla is set, but not dry. 

In Spain, this would be served at room temperature, cut into slices - in a sandwich, maybe - or cubes to be eaten as tapas, but you can eat it right away as you would any other omelette if you prefer.

 

 

 

 

 

Last year at this time I made Spinach & Mushroom Salad with Warm Bacon Dressing.

Egg pies are very common in Ukrainian cuisine, often in the context of Easter and mostly made with a yeast-raised dough. This one is more like the Russian "lazy" pies I have been making for the last few years, with a baking powder batter encasing, in this case, hard boiled eggs and green onions along with some other herb if you can get it. The result is an excellent breakfast, brunch, or lunch dish that goes together very easily and doesn't take all that long to bake either. 

 

I used spelt flour, as I so usually do; it worked very well. 

 

4 to 6 servings

1 hour - 30 minutes prep time

 

4 large eggs

1 bunch green onions

1/4 cup finely chopped parsley OR dill

salt & freshly ground black pepper

 

Put the eggs in a pot of water to cover, and bring them to a boil. Boil for 1 minute, then remove from the heat and cover. Let them sit for 10 minutes, then place them in cold water to cool. 

 

Wash, trim, and chop the herbs. Peel the eggs, chop them coarsely, and add them. Season with salt and pepper.

1 1/4 cups whole spelt flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/3 cup mayonnaise

1/3 cup thick yogurt

3 large eggs

1 teaspoon unsalted butter 

Mix the flour, salt, and baking soda, ideally right in the measuring cup. Mix the mayonnaise and yogurt in a mixing bowl, and break in the eggs and mix one at a time. 

 

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly oil a 9" pie plate with the butter. 

 

Mix the flour into the wet ingredients until well blended. Spread about half the batter in the prepared pie plate, then sprinkle the eggs and herbs evenly over them. Dollop the remaining batter over the eggs and herbs until they are covered. 

 

Bake at 350°F for 30 to 35 minutes, until cooked through. Let rest until just warm or room temperature before serving. Keep any leftovers well wrapped in the fridge, but bring them back up to room temperature to serve. However, this is best freshly made.

 

 

 

 

Last year at this time I made Leek & Sorrel Quiche.

I've seen this recipe around for years; it was definitely a little fad for a while. Finally, I got around to trying it myself. The theory is that is in a real Spanish tortilla, potatoes are slowly fried to beautiful golden-brown before having the egg mixture poured onto them and being cooked into a tortilla. It's a long, slow process! Here, potato chips are "reconstituted" in the egg mixture, and then become golden-brown, soft potatoes that are then cooked into a tortilla. 

My verdict - it's not bad, it's an okay tortilla, but not worth the buzz. It's something I'd do on a camping trip maybe, because it would save on the hauling around of actual potatoes and it's something you could do over a campfire, providing you had hauled in a good heavy skillet. Huh. This is already looking kind of problematic as an idea, actually. 

 

Needless to say, if you decide to try it, you should use the best quality potato chips you can find. They should be unsalted or only very lightly salted, and adjust any salt you add to the eggs accordingly. 

If the Spanish have a second civil war, it will be over whether one puts onion into a tortilla, or not. I am a firm concebollista, yesterday, today, and forever! But if you don't want it, it is conceivably possible to leave it out. Or use onion-flavoured chips, maybe.

 

2 to 4 servings

30 minutes - 20 minutes prep time

 

1 shallot OR small onion

6 large eggs

170 grams (6 ounces) thick potato chips

a pinch of salt (maybe)

freshly ground black pepper, other herbs to taste

2 tablespoons olive oil

Peel and mince the shallot or onion. 

Break the eggs into a mixing bowl, whisking between each one. Add about 3/4 of the potato chips, pressing them gently into the eggs, and let them soak for about 15 minutes. Turn and baste them with the egg occasionally, and also season them with the salt and pepper, and any other seasonings you may wish to add. 

Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in an 8" skillet and cook the onion gently over medium heat, stirring as needed, until softened and reduced in volume. Let it cool a minute then add it to the egg mixture. 

Wipe out the pan with a bit of paper towel, leaving as much of the oil as possible but getting up any little bits of onion which may scorch or cause the tortilla to stick. Add a bit more oil as needed to cook the tortilla. Heat the pan over medium heat - a little cooler than for most omelettes. 

Pour in the eggs and potato chips, spreading them out as evenly as possible and pressing the chips - by now they should be quite soft - down into the eggs. Cook gently over medium heat, shaking the pan occasionally to prevent sticking, until the bottom half is well set. 

Flip the tortilla onto a plate - be careful and do it over the counter because the top will still be somewhat liquid - then slide it back into the pan. Lift one corner to pour in any liquid egg etc that didn't make it back into the pan. Continue to cook and shake, until the bottom of the tortilla is set. Slide it out onto a plate - a clean one, whether you have washed and dried the first one or are using another - and let it cool to just warm or room temperature before serving. Serve it garnished with the remaining potato chips. 

 

 

 

 

 

Last year at this time I made Creamed Carrots & Belgian Endive.

I was a bit startled to write up this post then go to last year's date and see that I had made something extremely similar then. The thing is though, I make a lot of fried patty things; usually some variation on Vegetable Patties. They provide carbohydrate, protein, and vegetable all in one dish. Sometimes I make a little salad to go with them, but usually it's just the patties, and they are lunch; quick and satisfying. 

 

Some sort of sauce is nice to finish them off. I don't make the Apple Butter Chutney much anymore, alas, as it has too much sugar, so it's usually garlic-yogurt or a mix of half and half chile-garlic sauce and mayonnaise. The yogurt is probably the best choice for these, as it was with last year's iteration. Leftovers? Not too carby for most people to put them into a bun with some sauce and a slice of tomato and lettuce leaf. If you want to reheat them, a minute or so on each side in a hot skillet is better than the microwave.

The only salt that should go in is with the wild rice; halloumi is salty and will provide ample more. I keep meaning to rinse halloumi before I use it, just to see if it could be a little less salty.

 

4 servings

1 hour to cook the wild rice plus time for it to cool

20 minutes to make and cook the patties

 

3/4 cup wild rice

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 1/4 cups water

Place the wild rice, salt, and water in a rice cooker, and cook. This can be done up to a day in advance. 

1 medium carrot

1 small onion

1 clove of garlic

1 tablespoon mild vegetable oil

1/3 cup minced parsley OR cilantro

250 grams halloumi cheese

1/4 cup potato starch

freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 teaspoon rubbed savory OR thyme

2 large eggs

mild vegetable oil to fry

 

Peel and grate the carrot. Peel and finely chop the onion. Peel and mince the garlic. Heat the oil in a small skillet and cook the carrot and onion gently over medium heat until softened, stirring regularly. Add the garlic and cook for another minute or so. Transfer to a mixing bowl and let cool slightly. 

 

Wash, dry, and mince the parsley or cilantro. Grate the cheese. Add both to the mixing bowl of vegetables, along with the cooked and cooled wild rice, with any clumps in it broken up. Add the potato starch, seasonings, and eggs. Mix well. The mixture will be very loose and lumpy, but don't worry. Once you get it into the pan and cooking, it will rapidly become more co-operative.

 

Heat enough oil to generously cover the bottom of a large skillet, and ladle spoonfuls of the mixture in. Spread them to form neat, 1/2" thick patties. For the first 30 seconds or so, you can push the edges inwards to form neater shapes. Then cook them over medium heat for a total of 3 minutes per side, until firm and well browned. Add a little more oil as you turn them or if making new patties, if needed to prevent sticking.

 

 

 

 

Last year at this time I made... uh, this is embarrassing, actually... Carrot-Halloumi & Dill Fritters with Garlic Yogurt. Very much the same principle, with a slight change in ingredients. This one would also go well with Garlic Yogurt.

Essentially, this is a fancier French toast - Spanish toast, if you like - or a kind of pancake, more than an omelette, which is what Spanish tortillas usually are. Just to get distracted for a moment, I've come to realize by going through old cook books that what we now call French toast used to be referred to as German toast at least as often, but two world wars brought that to a definite end. Really, the first one was enough to do it. 

 

This will taste mostly quite familiar, although the touch of lemon zest along with the cinnamon is distinctive. I think it is best with fruit preserves, but have it with whatever you would normally serve with French toast or pancakes. Maybe some cream cheese and a drizzle of honey. Like the traditional Spanish tortilla of eggs and potatoes, it is customarily served at room temperature, which would make it a good choice for a breakfast or brunch buffet. If you prefer it warm, though, it will certainly be just fine that way.

 

6 servings

40 minutes - 20 minutes prep time

 

150 grams (5 ounces) stale bread

6 tablespoons milk or light cream

1 to 3 tablespoons sugar

the zest of 1/2 lemon

1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/8 teaspoon salt

4 large eggs

1 tablespoon mild vegetable oil to cook

 

Grate or crumble the bread very finely into a mixing bowl. Drizzle the milk over the bread, and mix it in well. Let it sit for a few minutes to soak thoroughly. The bread should be moist, but not soggy - no puddles. 

In another bowl. mix the sugar, lemon zest, cinnamon, and salt. Break in one egg and whisk it in thoroughly. Whisk in the remaining eggs. 

Fold the egg mixture into the soaked bread. Let it sit again, for a few minutes. Whisk it if the bread does not seem well broken up. 

Heat the oil in a medium skillet over medium heat. Scrape in the mixture and spread it out evenly. Cook it slowly until set and slightly browned on the bottom. Slide the tortilla out onto a plate, flip the pan over it, the flip it back to right side up with the tortilla in it. Cook the second side until set and slightly browned. All of this will require a fairly low temperature; adjust it early in the process if the tortilla seems to be browning faster than it is setting. 

Serve warm, or allow the tortilla to cool to room temperature before serving. 

Frozen puff pastry (not to mention all the other ingredients) makes this dish rich and elegant, but it's very simple to make. A crisp green salad is all it needs to be a complete meal, and balances out the richness very well. It does well made ahead, so it would be good for entertaining, but it can't be made too far ahead, or the pastry will go soggy. It's not this recipe - that's a hazard of puff pastry generally. A couple of hours is good though.

You could also make small versions of this; it would make an excellent appetizer or hors d'oeuvre. In that case, though, I'd expect to use twice as much puff pastry as the total area covered with the filling would diminish every time you make the tarts smaller. Expect 18 (3 x 3 squares) or 32 (4 x 4 squares) little tarts. Baking time would be a few minutes less as well, so start checking them sooner. 

I dithered a bit about making this with blue cheese; if anyone ever tries that I'd love to know about it.

 

6 servings

1 hour 15 minutes - 45 minutes prep time 

plus allow some time to cool

 

 

4 medium (450 grams; 1 pound) Belgian endive

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 teaspoon sugar

salt & freshly ground black pepper to taste

 

Wash and trim the endives, and cut them in half lengthwise. 

 

Heat the butter in a skillet large enough to hold them in a single layer, and cook them over medium-high heat for 10 to 15 minutes, turning them over halfway through. Keep a lid on the skillet while they cook. As soon as they are turned over, sprinkle them with the sugar and season with salt and pepper.  

Once they are done, remove them from the heat and let them cool, at least enough to handle.

 

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 tablespoon wheat flour

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

3/4 cup whole milk or light cream

125 grams (4 ounces) cheese such as

   Gruyere, Gouda, Friulano - something tangy but melty

salt & freshly ground black pepper to taste

a few good grates of nutmeg

1 large egg 

Heat the butter, flour, and mustard in a saucepan and mix until they form a smooth paste; let it cook for a minute or two then mix in the milk or cream, a little at a time, to form a smooth sauce. Add the cheese, grated or cut in dice. Stir to melt it, and add the salt, pepper, and nutmeg. The amount of salt to add is going to depend very much on how salty the cheese is, but in general this dish calls for shakes of the salt shaker and not any kind of spoonfuls. 

When the cheese is melted, remove the pan from the heat. Allow it to cool enough that you can beat in the egg without the egg being in danger of cooking.

 

225 grams (8 ounces) frozen puff pastry, thawed 

a handful of walnuts

1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese

 

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Roll out the pastry on a baking tray lined with parchment. Spread half of the cheese sauce over it, leaving an inch and a half to 2 inches all around. 

 

Slice the cooked pieces of endive, discarding the solid centres, and arrange them over the cheese sauce and pastry. Dot the remaining cheese sauce over them, and spread it out evenly.  Sprinkle with walnuts, and with the Parmesan cheese. Fold up the edges of the pastry to form low sides.

Bake for about 30 minutes, until set and nicely browned. Let cool to at least just warm, or to room temperature, before serving. 

Last year at this time I made Carrot, Halloumi, & Dill Fritters with Garlic Yogurt.

We really enjoyed these but as with a lot of dishes that include a carb, protein, and vegetables and yet don't seem quite sufficient to be the entire meal, I am at a bit of a loss as to how to classify them, and what to serve them with. They might make a nice appetizer, or if you want to serve them as a main course I think a bit of salad might be a good choice to accompany them; maybe this cold spinach salad. If you are serving a crowd, they could also just be one of an ensemble of other Korean dishes.

 

12 small omelettes - 4 to 6 servings

30 minutes prep time

2 bundles (100 grams) bean thread (cellophane) noodles

2 to 4 green onions

1 small carrot

2-3 tablespoons soy sauce

2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil

freshly ground black pepper to taste

1/2 teaspoon sugar

5 large eggs

mild vegetable oil to fry

parsley to garnish

chile-garlic sauce to taste

 

Put a small pot of water on to boil, then boil the noodles for 5 minutes. Drain them well and snip or cut them into short segments. 

 

Meanwhile, wash, trim, and finely chop the green onions. Peel and grate the carrot. Mix these in a mixing bowl withe the drained noodles, and season with the soy sauce, sesame oil, pepper and sugar.  

Break in the eggs and whisk until well blended. Heat a griddle or frying pan with enough oil to cover the bottom. Ladle in the egg mixture to form small omelettes. Once the bottoms of the omelettes are set, fold them in half, and cook until done, turning them over as required. Once they are set and very lightly browned transfer them to a serving plate, and continue cooking more omelettes until they are all done. Add more oil as required. 

I put the parsley on just to give a touch of colour, but it went really well with them. Maybe next time I will put some right in. Chile-garlic sauce provided the finishing touch.

 

 

 

 

Last year at this time I made Pizza Strata.

I've made meat patties with potato in them before, quite early in the history of this blog, in fact. Much as I liked those Gehacktes Rinderschnitzel, these are more complex and spicy and have quite a different feel (and taste!) to them. 

 

As ever, when grating potato to be cooked in a pan, it is so important to squeeze out as much liquid from them as possible. That hasn't changed. Also dredge them generously in flour - I prefer barley flour for this - to give them the distinct crispy finish.  

Eat them with rice and salad, or in a wrap with lettuce and pickles. You could make them a bit larger and put them in a bun too, I suppose; why not? 

These are Ürgüp Köftesi because they are koftas (meatballs) from Ürgüp, in Turkey.

4 to 6 servings

45 minutes prep time

 

2 tablespoons semolina OR bulgur

1 medium onion

2 to 5 cloves of garlic

500 grams (4 medium; 1 pound) potatoes

1/4 to 1/2 cup finely chopped parsley

500 grams (1 pound) ground beef or lamb, or mix

1 large egg

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon allspice berries

freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 teaspoon sweet paprika

1/2 to 1 teaspoon Aleppo pepper

1/3 to 1/2 cup barley or wheat flour

mild vegetable oil to fry

 

If using semolina, it can go straight into the mixing bowl. But if you are using bulgur, it should be soaked in boiling water while you prepare the other ingredients, then drained. 

 

Peel the onion but leave the base plate on. Use that to hold onto while you grate the onion finely into a strainer. Peel and grate the garlic. It can go into the mixing bowl. Wash the potatoes and trim them, or peel them if you like, and grate them onto a board. Then, take them by handfuls and squeeze well over the sink to remove as much liquid as possible. Add the drained handfuls to the mixing bowl, then give the onion a final press and add it too. Wash, dry, and finely chop the parsley and add it. Add the ground meat and egg.

 

Grind the salt and allspice berries together, then add them with the remaining seasonings. Mix very well by hand. 

Spread the flour over a plate. Form the mixture into 12 to 18 equal sized balls, and flatten them to a 1" thick disk. Dredge them in the flour. 

Heat a good layer of oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Fry the köftesi for 4 to 5 minutes per side, until nicely browned. Test one to be sure the juices are running clear, then let them rest for 5 minutes before serving. 

The mixture will keep, well-sealed, for 24 hours in the fridge, so they can be made ahead or cooked in 2 batches. 

Last year at this time I made Bean, Belgian Endive, & Blue Cheese Salad.

I'm giving instructions for making this as 1 large pie, but I actually made one medium pie (for my mother and I) and a couple of individual pies (for Mr. Ferdzy). This will all make sense when I also tell you that the medium pie was made with chopped lamb liver (could have use beef, or chicken for that matter) and the smaller ones had regular ground beef in them. The kind of meat you use in these is really very flexible; it just has to be chopped up fairly finely. 

This is another relative of the Russian pies made with some combination of yogurt/sour cream/mayonnaise, and no complaints here. It was lovely. 

As with the meat, the herbs can be changed around. If there's anything that's immutable, I'd say that lots of onions are required. 

It feels strange publishing a Russian recipe at the moment, but let's try to remember that people are not their nation's politics. I'd like to share a story I heard of a woman in our town, a friend of my mother-in-law's. She used to go around and share her history with high-school students. She came from Poland (I think), and was a teenager during WWII. When the Russians came in from the east, she was on the road as a refugee. She was seized by a band of Russian soldiers, raped, and left to die in a snow-bank. A little while later another band of Russian soldiers came along, who pulled her out and gave her medical treatment and took care of her until she could get to a better situation. 

Let's remember that every society has its smashers and its menders. Let us be on the side of the menders and support them wherever we can find them.

 

8 servings

1 hour 30 minutes - 45 minutes prep time

 

 

1 1/2 cups whole spelt flour

3/4 teaspoon salt

3/4 teaspoon baking powder

1/3 cup cold unsalted butter

1/2 cup thick yogurt

 

Mix the spelt flour with the salt and baking powder in a mixing bowl. Grate in the butter, pausing to dust the flour over it every so often. Rub the butter into the flour until evenly distributed but still in little lumps. Mix in the yogurt to form a ball of stiff dough. Cover and set it aside.

 

3 medium onions

3 cloves of garlic

1 medium carrot 

1 tablespoon bacon fat or mild vegetable oi

1/4 teaspoon salt

freshly ground black pepper to taste

 

Peel and chop the onions. Peel and mince the garlic. Peel and grate the carrot. 

 

Heat the fat or oil in a large skillet and cook the onions and carrot gently over medium heat, stirring regularly, until softened and reduced. Add the garlic and seasonings. Add the ground or finely chopped meat, and cook until browned but still with a fair bit of pink showing. Remove the pan from the heat. 

Wash, dry, and chop the herbs. 

Roll out the pastry to fit your pie plate(s). Spread the filling out in it evenly, and sprinkle with the chopped fresh herbs. Preheat the oven to 350°F. 

1 cup thick yogurt

1/4 cup mayonnaise

3 large eggs

1/4 teaspoon salt

freshly ground black pepper to taste

Whisk the mayonnaise into the yogurt, then beat in the eggs one at a time. Season with the salt and pepper, and whisk again. Pour this evenly over the prepared pie(s). Shake them gently to settle the topping into the meat. 

Bake at 375°F for 45 to 50 minutes for a single pie, or for 30 to 35 minutes if you have made 6 single pies. In any case the filling should be just set in the middle, and show some brown spots. 

Let rest for 10 to 15 minutes before serving; also fine at room temperature.

This is the time of year when people often find themselves with a lot of hard-boiled eggs left over, and it's always nice to have something a little different to do with them. These are quick and simple, and who doesn't like cutlets? (Yeah, I know - somebody doesn't. Not me though; I just love them.) 

 

Eat them plain or put them in a sandwich. Have them for breakfast or lunch. Add a little sautéd garlic andd/or mushrooms. Bind them with a little leftover mashed potato instead of the flour. There are lots of possibilities with these. 

 

5 or 6 cutlets - serves 2 or 3 

30 minutes prep time

4 large eggs

1 or 2 green onions or 1/4 cup minced chives

salt & freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon barley or wheat flour

1/4 cup grated firm cheese, optional

1 large egg

1/3 cup fine dry breadcrumbs

2 tablespoons mild vegetable  oil

 

Put the 4 eggs in a pot with water to cover and bring them to a boil. Boil for 1 minute, then cover the pot and let them sit in the hot water for 10 minutes. Rinse under cold water until they are cool. 

 

Peel and mash the eggs fairly finely. Season them with salt and pepper to taste. Add the flour, and the cheese if you are using it. Break in the raw egg, and mix to smooth mash. 

Spread the breadcrumbs on a plate. Divide the mixture into 5 or 6 equal portions, and flatten each one into a patty. Press each one into the breadcrumbs on both sides. 

Heat the oil over medium heat. Fry the patties until golden-brown on each side; about 3 minutes per side. Serve at once. 

 

 

 

 

Last year at this time I made Carrot & Sauerkraut Soup.

I like to kid myself that things made with dates are "low sugar" but I'm afraid they are mostly just delicious. Still, this has a lot less sugar than most cakes.  

Like quite a few cakes with a lot of fruit in them, this can be a bit awkward to mix at the end, because the fruit seems so excessive to the quantity of batter, hence the slightly odd instructions for a combination of layering and mixing. It all works out fine in the end though, and this makes a tasty end to a meal, a good snack, or even a breakfast treat. 

Because of the amount of apple chunks in this it will not store outstandingly well. As usual, I can't say I find that a problem... it just has to be eaten. Too bad; so sad.

 

12 to 16 servings

1 hour - 15 minutes prep time

 

1 1/2 cups whole spelt flour

1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt 

1/3 cup unsalted butter

2 tablespoons honey

2 large eggs

1/2 to 1 cup diced dates

4 medium apples

1/2 cup milk or light cream

Measure the spelt flour and mix in the baking powder and salt. Line an 8" x 8" pan with parchment paper. Preheat the oven to 375°F.

In a mixing bowl, cream the butter and beat in the honey. Beat in the eggs, one at a time.

Chop the dates, discarding the pits, if any. Peel, core, and dice the apples fairly finely. 

Mix about half the flour into the creamed butter etc. Mix in the milk or cream, then the remainder of the flour. Mix in the dates. Because of the very large quantity of apples going into this, I found it easiest to spread about 1/3 of the batter over the bottom of the prepared pan. Sprinkle 1/3 of the apples over this, and press them gently in. Mix the remainder of the apples into the batter and scrape it all into the pan. Spread it out evenly, pressing down slightly to remove any air gaps. 

Bake at 375°F for about 45 minutes, until lightly browned and firm to the touch (done). Let cool 5 minutes then remove from the pan to a rack to finish cooling. 

Keeps for several days well-wrapped and refrigerated.

 

 

 

 

Last year at this time I made Roasted Onions with Sherry & Vinegar. 

This traditional Bulgarian dish was commonly made when making sausages; leftover filling was spread on bread and broiled. It then went on to became a popular snack whether sausages were being made or not. You can season the meat however you like, really, although this was a pleasant combination.

 

Why are they called Princesses? No idea. It sounds a bit cannibalistic, but I hope the actual implication is that they are good enough for a princess. Not one of your sits-in-a-tower-embroidering princesses, but an I'm-also-a-general-in-the-army type princess, with a hearty appetite. 

My beef (and given the relatively small amount needed, it was only beef) is grass-fed and therefore very lean. This is a dish that needs a little fat in it, to melt into the bread and give it the perfect texture. Not too much though; I added a scant tablespoon of bacon fat to my mixture (before the egg, so I could get it well-distributed) and it worked perfectly. 

Why yes, these really are a lot like an open-faced hamburger. More fun, but I think some pickles and slice of tomato would do them nothing but good. Salad is a great accompaniment for them. I say nothing of French fries.

 

4 servings

20 minutes prep time

 

3/4 teaspoon cumin seeds

1/4 teaspoon black peppercorns

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon rubbed savory

1 teaspoon sweet smoked paprika

1 or 2 cloves of garlic

1 tablespoon minced parsley, OPTIONAL

250 grams (1/2 pound) slightly fatty ground beef

  OR beef and pork mix

1 large egg

1 medium baguette

  OR 4 crusty buns

 

Grind the cumin and pepper with the salt, then mix all the spices in a mixing bowl. Peel and mince the garlic, (and mince the parsley) and add it along with the beef. Mix well, then mix in the egg. 

Preheat the oven broiler. 

Slice the bread or buns. Toast them lightly under the broiler, then turn the oven heat to 400°F. Spread the buns with the beef mixture while the oven heats, then bake them for 8 to 10 minutes until the meat is done. If the meat is done but you think it could have a better colour, put the princesses under the broiler for a couple of minutes. Serve hot, garnished with a sprinkle of parsley, if possible.

 

 

 

 

Last year at this time I made Bachelor's Baked Hash. Huh. Do I want meaty, carby comfort food all the time at the end of February? Apparently.

Potato pancakes are popular all through Eastern Europe. This version is from Bulgaria, and it's pretty similar to most, although the addition of cheese is a little different. Normally, it would be sirene cheese but good luck finding that around here - feta is pretty close. The result is quite substantial, and we made it our lunch with a salad on the side. If you want to serve it with more dishes, you might want to cut back on the feta.

Feta is quite salty so be careful with adding more salt. It will need a little, but only a little. If you decide to omit the cheese you should add about 3/4 of a teaspoon of salt. You could replace the mint with basil in a pinch, but dried mint is actually an underused herb, in my opinion. It's worth getting it and seeing what you think of it. It's good with cheese dishes generally.

As with any dish made with grated raw potatoes, the difference between complete success and a soggy yet crumbly mess is *squeezing* those potatoes to remove as much liquid as possible. It makes all the difference. 

I actually broiled my Patatnik for 6 minutes at the end, and it looked like it. As a lover of dark crunchy potatoes I regret nothing; but I am recommending a somewhat shorter time.

 

4 servings

1 hour 20 minutes - 20 minutes prep time

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

600 grams (1 1/4 pounds) baking potatoes

2 tablespoons potato starch

1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon salt (consult the feta)

freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon rubbed savory

1 to 2 teaspoons rubbed dried mint

1/2 to 1 teaspoon Aleppo pepper

1/2 cup feta or sirene cheese, crumbled

1 large OR 2 small eggs

1 tablespoon unsalted butter, again

Generously butter a 9" pie plate or similar shallow baking pan. Preheat the oven to 400°F. 

Wash, trim, and grate the potatoes coarsely. Squeeze them hard over the sink by handfuls, to remove as much water from them as you possibly can. Put the handfuls of dried potato shreds into a mixing bowl. When the potatoes are all squeezed, add the potato starch and seasonings. Toss well to combine. 

Crumble in the feta cheese and mix. Break in the egg(s) and mix thoroughly. The potatoes should be coated enough to stick together, but not noticeably eggy. Scrape them into the prepared pan, and press them gently but evenly into a layer. Dot with the remaining butter. 

Bake the Patatnik for 45 to 50 minutes, until golden brown. If you feel it is done, but not quite as brown as you would like, put it under the broiler for 3 or 4 minutes. Let it rest for 10 minutes before serving. 

This can be cooked on a griddle as pancakes as well; oil it well then ladle in thin pancakes. Cook until well-browned on both sides, adding more oil as needed. Expect to get 6 to 8 fair sized pancakes. I have not tried this as I tend to think that the oven is both easier and not much slower given that you are unlikely to be able to cook all your pancakes at once, but I'm putting it out there.

 

 

 

 

Last year at this time I made Almost Whole Stuffed Cabbage. 

When I made Gomel-Style Cutlets a while back I threatened to coat other foods to be pan-fried in grated potato, and now I've finally done it. This is a bit like fish and chips, chips included with the fish. A little cole slaw or other salad should finish the meal nicely.

This is a very simple way to cook fish, but I'd say there are two points to watch carefully for success. The first is to be sure your fish fillets are as dry as you can reasonably get them, or the potato crust won't stick well. The second is that while they are being cooked, do not press them down into the oil. I did that, and it packed the potato together too firmly - I believe it would have been a little more crispy if I had managed to refrain. Still, we all enjoyed these and I will try to improve my technique by making it again.

 

2 servings

30 to 40 minutes prep time

 

675 grams (1.5 pounds) white fish fillets

1/3 cup barley or wheat flour

freshly ground black pepper OR other seasonings to taste

2 large eggs

450 grams (1 pound; 3 medium-large) white potatoes

1/4 teaspoon salt

mild vegetable oil to fry 

If you start with frozen fish, it must be thawed. In any case, unwrap the fish fillets and lay them on a good pad of paper or kitchen towels; if kitchen towels preferably clean, but not your good ones. Let them blot and dry thoroughly while you prepare the other ingredients. 

Put the flour on a plate and mix in any seasonings you wish to use. I kept it simple with just some pepper, but a little paprika and thyme would be a good choice. Whisk the eggs on another plate. Wash, peel, and grate the potatoes. Mix them with the salt and let them sit for a few minutes, then squeeze them well to remove and discard as much liquid from them as possible. Put them on another plate. 

Heat a large skillet or griddle over medium-high heat. Pour in about 1/4" of oil. While it heats, coat each fish fillet in flour on both sides, then in egg on both sides, and then in the potatoes, ensuring an even coating of potato all over. Lay them in the hot oil and cook for about 5 minutes per side, until golden-brown. If they do not all fit in the pan (unlikely unless you are using a fairly large griddle) put them on a platter in the oven, kept warm at 200°F until they are all done. Add a little more oil to the pan as required in cooking them. Serve as quickly as possible.

Last year at this time I made Apple-Peanut Cole-Slaw with Coconut-Curry Dressing.

As you can see, this is a quick and simple recipe - and yet, not so fast. I feel obliged to note that I had a terrible time getting the temperature just right. I would move the knob about a millimeter, and it would swing from "way too cool" to "way too hot" or back again. I mean, my stove does that all the time, but it seemed particularly egregious with these. Celeriac is a bit touchy, is what I'm saying. In the end, though, they were very tasty if not quite as beautiful as I would have liked. 

The batter seems skimpy and runny, but persevere in mixing them as well as you can - once they are cooking it works just fine.

The bottom 2 fritters were not made with celeriac. They were made with oyster plant. This was the second year that we've grown some, although last time I just looked at them and thought, "Okay, now what?" Progress! With the spices, it was a little hard to assess their flavour. They are considerably milder than the celeriac, which was quite intense. They also had a softer and - I have to use the word - gummier texture than the celeriac. I quite liked it, but it is a texture more common in Chinese cuisine than in Western cuisine. They were more inclined to brown nicely without scorching, which I was also in favour of. I used 2 roots which yielded 1/4 cup each when grated. They wanted to discolour rapidly, so I threw them into some acidulated water while I finished mixing the batter.

 

6 to 8 fritters

30 minutes prep time

 

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon black peppercorns

1/4 teaspoon caraway seeds

1/8 teaspoon fenugreek seeds

1/3 cup potato starch

1 extra-large egg

2 cups peeled, grated celeriac

about 2 tablespoons mild vegetable oil to fry

 

Grind the spices together and put them in a small bowl with the potato starch and egg. Mix well, working out all the lumps. 

Peel and grate the celeriac. Mix it into the batter. 

Heat the oil on a griddle over medium heat. Spoon the batter into even portions onto it once it is hot. Cook for about 3 minutes per side, until set and golden-brown. Add a little more oil when you turn them if it seems necessary. 

Last year at this time I made Paprika Braised Cabbage.

"I hope you won't take this the wrong way," said Mom as she ate her piece of birthday cheesecake, "but this reminds me of Sara Lee." 

 

I didn't take it the wrong way; I had been thinking that myself. I used to love a Sara Lee cheesecake as a kid, when it was a rare treat. Mine is better of course; a little less sweet and gummy and we could ladle on the strawberry sauce ad lib.

 

I used my own homemade graham crackers for the crumbs to keep them lower carb (I'm now only using 2 tablespoons each of the Sucanat and honey; it's fine) but you will need to make them a day ahead in that case. I was also feeling reckless and decided not to pre-bake the crust. Other than a couple of pieces I should have ground finer floating up, it worked just fine - the crust was a bit softer than it would have been otherwise, but I quite liked that. It added to the Sara Lee effect.

If you can't get labneh, it's cheese, but cheese that is yogurt strained until it is too thick to stir easily. Be sure to use a good quality yogurt with no gelatine, gums, powdered milk, or other muckings about in it. One with a bit of fat to it will be a good choice. Still, for cheesecake, this hits a magic spot between relative restraint and rich creamy goodness. You will need about twice as much yogurt to make the cheese, i.e. for 450 grams labneh you will need 900 grams yogurt.

 

I forgot to grease the sides of the tin and probably baked the cake about 5 minutes too long, hence the cracking. Next time I might pour some water into the lower baking pan too. But with the sauce covering it up, nobody really noticed the cracks.

 

8 to 12 servings

1 hour 15 minutes - 30 minutes prep time 

NOT including making the graham crackers OR labneh

 

 

 

2 cups graham cracker crumbs

1/4 cup melted butter 

 

Crush the crackers to smooth crumbs, then mix in the melted butter. Line a 9" spring-form pan with parchment paper, and butter the sides. Press the graham crumbs firmly and evenly into the pan. 

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

450 grams labneh (yogurt cheese)

the finely grated zest of 1/2 large lemon

the juice of 1/2 large lemon

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1/8 teaspoon salt

1/3 cup honey

4 large eggs

1/4 cup potato starch

 

Put the labneh in a mixing bowl, and add the lemon zest, lemon juice, vanilla extract, and salt. Mix well. Whisk in the honey, then the eggs, one at a time. Whisk in the potato starch. Scrape the mixture into the prepared pan. 

Place the pan on a baking tray (springform pans have been known to leak) and bake for 40 to 45 minutes, until just set. Let cool completely before serving.

3 cups (frozen) strawberries OR blueberries

1 tablespoon arrowroot OR cornstarch

3 tablespoons sugar (or to taste)

 

Put the thawed or at least semi-thawed berries in a pot and mix in the starch and sugar well before turning on the heat. Heat over medium heat, stirring frequently, until thickened. Let cool before serving with the cheesecake. 

 

 

 

 

 

Last year at this time I made Clementine & Pear Salad with Cranberries & Almonds.

I served these as a side dish with steak, but they would make an interesting starter course. Mine were also filled with creamed spinach, but they are quite fine on their own. They might make a good way to serve potatoes if you are serving from a buffet.  You could make them small enough to be manageable as finger food, although in that case I suspect you should bake them for a slightly shorter time. 

It has to be admitted this is a bit of a gimmick, but it's one that is both do-able and eat-able (with pleasure), which is more than can be said of a lot of foody gimmicks.

 

4 to 6 servings

8 to 16 cream puffs

40 minutes - 10 minutes prep time

NOT including baking the potatoes

 

1 cup very smooth mashed potato (2 medium)

1/4 cup unsalted butter

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup potato starch

other seasonings to taste, such as pepper, nutmeg, or chives

2 large eggs

 

Bake the potatoes until tender then cool them, and run them through food mill. This can be done up to 24 hours in advance.

 

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

 

Melt the butter in large heavy bottomed pot with the salt; mix in the finely mashed potato. Mix in the potato starch and seasonings - you want at least a little pepper, but season them to taste - until it comes together to form a ball. Remove the pot from the heat. 

 

In a few minutes when the mixture is sufficiently cool not to set them, beat in the eggs one at a time with an electric mixer. Beat for 2 minutes. Form the mixture into little buns spread out on the parchment paper, and bake them for 15 minutes. Reset the heat to 325°F and bake for 15 minutes more. Serve at once.  

Last year at this time I made Beet Mousse. Yeah, yeah: mid December is when I tend to have fits of playing with my food.

I really, really did intend to get away from the cheese at last, but I made the leek rolls, and put them in the pan, and there they were - totally naked, and not in a good way. They needed something to keep them moist. They needed cheese. Okay. Although I think a less cheesy solution of buttered bread crumbs and Parmesan in modest quantities would also work.

Now that I have a technique down for stuffing leeks, I think they are so terrific. About the same level of difficulty to make as lasagne (which is to say, a little picky but not at all difficult) and with that same impressive presentation. And cheese; let's not forget the cheese.

 

This is not just impressive looking, it's impressive tasting, and I'm afraid that with the price of some of the ingredients the grocery bill will also be quite impressive, and not in a good way, again. Still, sometimes one must splash out a little. 

I used Friulano, which I like so much, but mozzarella may be easier to get. At any rate, it should be a moderately mild cheese, to allow the smoked trout to really shine.

 

4 servings

40 minutes advance preparation time

1 hour 30 minutes - (40 minutes prep time) to finish

1/2 cup raw wild rice

1 1/2 cups water

1/8 teaspoon salt

4 large (600 grams; 1.5 pounds) leeks

4 cups loosely-packed raw spinach

OR 150 grams (5 ounces) cooked spinach

 

Put the wild rice, water, and salt into a rice-cooker and cook. Once it is done, remove it from the pot promptly. 

 

Put a pot of water on to boil. Trim and wash the leeks. When you have the solid shank part of each one trimmed, cut it from top to bottom half-way through. This will allow you to pull out the centre of the leek, leaving 5 or 6 layers. Boil the outer layers for 4 or 5 minutes, then lift them from the boiling water, rinse them in cold water, and drain them well. (Set the inner leaves aside but keep them.) 

Wash and pick over the spinach while the leeks blanch. Blanch the spinach for just a minute or so, then rinse in cold water and drain well. Squeeze out as much water from them as you easily can, then chop them finely. 

All of these things can be done up to a day ahead, and the prepared ingredients kept refrigerated until needed.

2 medium shallots

1 or 2 cloves of garlic

125 grams (1/4 pound) button mushrooms

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 teaspoon rubbed basil

1/4 teaspoon salt

freshly ground black pepper to taste

a little grating of nutmeg

125 grams (1/4 pound; 1/2 fillet) smoked trout  

1 medium egg

250 grams (1/2 pound) smoked trout

3/4 cup 5% or 10% cream

100 grams grated mozzarella OR Friulano cheese

1/4 cup finely grated Parmesan cheese

Peel and mince the shallots and garlic. Clean, trim, and slice the mushrooms - slice them in half again if the mushrooms are large. Finely chop the leftover inner leaves of the leeks.

 

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly oil or butter a 1 1/2 quart/litre shallow baking pan. 

 

Heat the butter in a large skillet, and cook the shallots over medium heat, stirring regularly, until softened. Add the leeks and mushrooms and continue cooking, stirring regularly, until they too are softened and reduced in volume. Add the seasonings, and the garlic and cook for a minute or two more. 

 

Turn the cooked vegetables into a mixing bowl and add the wild rice and finely chopped spinach. Break in the egg. Break the trout into flakes, discarding the skin, and add it to the mixing bowl. Add 1/4 cup of the cream. Stir gently to combine. 

Take 2 or 3 leaves of the blanched outer leaves of the leeks, spreading them out to form a rectangle. Put in enough filling in a line across the middle, and fold the leek leaves closed around them. Place the resulting filled leek leaves into the prepared pan. Continue filling the leek leaves until they are all done. Pour the remaining cream evenly over them. 

Grate the cheeses, and sprinkle them evenly over the pan of leeks. Bake for 50 minutes to an hour, until the cheese is bubbly and lightly browned. Let rest 5 minutes before serving.

 

 

 

 

Last year at this time I made Beets au gratin.