Seasonal Ontario Food

Like cauliflower, once upon a time celery was a glamorous and expensive vegetable. Then modern agriculturists figured out how to churn it out all year round. Its season here in Ontario is still relatively short, from late summer through to early winter, but its ubiquity means it rarely gets treated with much respect. Here it steps forward from it's role as supporting bit of crunchy umami, and steals the show. 

Most of the recipes I referred to for this said that the longer this cooks, the better. After even one attempt I can say I disagree. I cooked mine (the celery part) for somewhere between 40 and 45 minutes, and that bordered on too long for me. As far as I'm concerned,while the celery should absolutely not be crunchy, it should also not be mushy, and a few pieces were definitely heading in that direction. 

With that noted, this was surprisingly delicious. I was a bit dubious about the amounts of mint and parsley in addition to allll that celery, but it worked out beautifully. This is generally served with a Persian rice pilaf, although we had plain steamed rice. Yogurt is a nice accompaniment as well. 

Authentically, this is made with dried limes. I just laughed, and ordered fresh ones. People in more civilized locations who can get dried limes should use 2 to 4 of them, and they would go in as soon as the liquid is added to the celery. They are then squeezed and removed before serving.

 

4 servings

2 hours - 1 hour prep time NOT including cooling time

 

 

500 grams stewing lamb OR beef

    OR bone-in chicken pieces

2 tablespoons mild vegetable oil

1/4 teaspoon salt

4 cups water 

 

Check and trim or cut the meat as necessary, and pat it dry with a paper towel. Heat the oil in a large heavy-bottomed soup pot, and brown the meat pieces all over. Season with the salt as they cook. Once they are browned, add the water and simmer until cooked and tender; about 20 minutes for chicken and up to an hour for beef or lamb. 

This can be done in advance, and allowing the beef or lamb to cool before continuing will make it more tender.

 

3-4 pods green cardamom 

1/2 teaspoon cumin seed

1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground ginger

1/8 teaspoon ground cloves

4 to 5 cloves of garlic

Crush the cardamom to remove and discard the green papery husks, then grind them with the cumin, pepper, and salt. Put them in a small bowl with the remaining spices. Peel and mince the garlic, and add it to the spices.

 

1 small head (6 to 10 stalks) celery

1 large onion

1 cup loosely packed mint leaves

1 cup loosely packed parsley

2 tablespoons mild vegetable oil

the juice of 1/2 large lime

lime wedges to serve

 

Separate all the celery stalks, wash them, and trim them. Cut off the leafy parts but keep them. Cut the stalks in halves or thirds lengthwise, then across into pieces about an inch to an inch and a half in length. Set them aside. Peel and chop the onion, and add it to the celery. 

Wash, dry, and pick over the mint and parsley. Discard any damaged leaves and tough stems, and chop them roughly, along with the saved celery leaves. Keep a few sprigs of the herbs aside to garnish the dish.

 

Heat the oil in a large, heavy bottomed soup pot, and add the celery pieces and onion. Cook for about 10 minutes over medium heat, until softened and wilted but not browned, stirring regularly. Add the herbs, and cook for another few minutes until well wilted. Add the spices and garlic, and mix in well for just a minute or two, until well combined and fragrant. Add the broth from cooking the meat pieces, and simmer the stew for 15 minutes. 

Now add the meat pieces back in and simmer for another 15 minutes. The meat should be hot through, and the celery should be tender but not soggy. Mix in the lime juice during the last few minutes of cooking. 

Serve the stew garnished with the reserved herbs, and pass the other half of the lime as wedges, for anyone who wants it a bit more tart.